Hello:
I hope you can help me. I have recently acquired a pair of Beveridge Model 3 Electrostatic loudspeakers. I want to not only restore, them, but make them better than the original. The woofers/sub-woofers have been removed and I need to know if anyone here in this forum can give me ideas on what else to put in their place.
Thank you
David Drake
I hope you can help me. I have recently acquired a pair of Beveridge Model 3 Electrostatic loudspeakers. I want to not only restore, them, but make them better than the original. The woofers/sub-woofers have been removed and I need to know if anyone here in this forum can give me ideas on what else to put in their place.
Thank you
David Drake
Hi,
as far as I know, Beveridge Jun. is back in business. Why not ask him?
While there are many speakers around that can be easily tweaked to a better performance, this will not necessarily hold true with ESLs. Especially with such an elaborate product like the Bevs.
If You don´t have intimate and considerable knowledge about the hows and whys of ESLs don´t think to improve the stuff. The opposite is much more possible
jauuu
Calvin
as far as I know, Beveridge Jun. is back in business. Why not ask him?
While there are many speakers around that can be easily tweaked to a better performance, this will not necessarily hold true with ESLs. Especially with such an elaborate product like the Bevs.
If You don´t have intimate and considerable knowledge about the hows and whys of ESLs don´t think to improve the stuff. The opposite is much more possible
jauuu
Calvin
Improving Beveridge Model III
Question on your Model III's is whether the electrostatic panels are working properly. To rebuild those panels is not trivial. I had mine rebuilt by Rick Beveridge, who had the knowledge and resources to rebuild his dad's products. I believe he is now retired in the L.A. area and is no longer in business, but I can dig up his email address if you're interested.
The crossover components could possibly be improved, and since the surrounds on the woofers are usually gone, they could be re-coned. The sound from the electrostat panels is some of the best of its kind, and one way to go would be to use the III's from about 100 cycles up and crossover to stand alone subwoofers. The banana jacks on the back of the Bev's allow you to use them just for the electrostatic panels.
Marshall
Question on your Model III's is whether the electrostatic panels are working properly. To rebuild those panels is not trivial. I had mine rebuilt by Rick Beveridge, who had the knowledge and resources to rebuild his dad's products. I believe he is now retired in the L.A. area and is no longer in business, but I can dig up his email address if you're interested.
The crossover components could possibly be improved, and since the surrounds on the woofers are usually gone, they could be re-coned. The sound from the electrostat panels is some of the best of its kind, and one way to go would be to use the III's from about 100 cycles up and crossover to stand alone subwoofers. The banana jacks on the back of the Bev's allow you to use them just for the electrostatic panels.
Marshall
He probably will help you.
What you need to know is the xover freq that the panels need to see from the "subs" or "woofers".
That will then tell you what you can fit into the hole where they were, or use externally. IF the cells still work, then you can use some freeware, your soundcard and a run-of-the-mill electret mic for measurement (search here or google for info on that) to actually see for yourself what the cells are doing.
Finding the roll off freq will be easy enough.
That will give you the necessary info to select new state-of-the-art drivers.
The volume of an existing box is part of that process, fwiw.
Plugging that into a box response simulator will let you see the F3 point for a given set of T/S params. How the driver will actually sound is another matter, and the mfr's freq response figures are often "somewhat optimistic" and are taken on IEC baffles, not the narrower real world baffles. Also height above ground figures in here too.
_-_-bear
What you need to know is the xover freq that the panels need to see from the "subs" or "woofers".
That will then tell you what you can fit into the hole where they were, or use externally. IF the cells still work, then you can use some freeware, your soundcard and a run-of-the-mill electret mic for measurement (search here or google for info on that) to actually see for yourself what the cells are doing.
Finding the roll off freq will be easy enough.
That will give you the necessary info to select new state-of-the-art drivers.
The volume of an existing box is part of that process, fwiw.
Plugging that into a box response simulator will let you see the F3 point for a given set of T/S params. How the driver will actually sound is another matter, and the mfr's freq response figures are often "somewhat optimistic" and are taken on IEC baffles, not the narrower real world baffles. Also height above ground figures in here too.
_-_-bear
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