I am trying to establish a reference system for building speakers, and trying to figure out where best to improve my active system.
MacBook - Optical out - DigiFP & MiniDSP 2x8 & Vol FP - Rotel RMB 1048
So currently all 8 channels are actively XO'd, which gives me great scope to do A-B switching, and testing out up to 4 way speakers.
I have a few distinct current approaches:
True full range (using Mark Audio)
F.A.S.T with full range assisted by a woofer
Front horns, up to 3 way.
Currently all speaker cables are Cat6, and phono's are a mix of low end QED and some real cheap freebies.
I figure the source is pretty good, (solid state, battery power, can use AdniNirvana to avoid OSX's meddling). But perhaps USB instead of mini-toslink?
All cables could be improved upon...
MiniDSP, I would love to compare to the Hypex DLCP
Amps, while 8 channels is nice, not entirely needed, curious if improving these (perhaps a single pair of nCores) would yield good results?
If you were me, where would you start?
MacBook - Optical out - DigiFP & MiniDSP 2x8 & Vol FP - Rotel RMB 1048
So currently all 8 channels are actively XO'd, which gives me great scope to do A-B switching, and testing out up to 4 way speakers.
I have a few distinct current approaches:
True full range (using Mark Audio)
F.A.S.T with full range assisted by a woofer
Front horns, up to 3 way.
Currently all speaker cables are Cat6, and phono's are a mix of low end QED and some real cheap freebies.
I figure the source is pretty good, (solid state, battery power, can use AdniNirvana to avoid OSX's meddling). But perhaps USB instead of mini-toslink?
All cables could be improved upon...
MiniDSP, I would love to compare to the Hypex DLCP
Amps, while 8 channels is nice, not entirely needed, curious if improving these (perhaps a single pair of nCores) would yield good results?
If you were me, where would you start?
Let me get this straight: You're using network cable as speaker wire? Who came up with this nonsense? What about plain ol' reasonable-gauge twin lead? (0.75 mm² to 4 mm², depending on length - whatever does not degrade amplifier damping factor significantly.) The leads in network cable are pretty thin, not much cross-section there. I bet even lamp cord would have a lot less resistance.
Given the galvanic isolation afforded by Toslink, it does not matter whether the computer is mains- or battery-powered.
I hope you have optimized your gain structure for low noise.
Given the galvanic isolation afforded by Toslink, it does not matter whether the computer is mains- or battery-powered.
I hope you have optimized your gain structure for low noise.
Let me get this straight: You're using network cable as speaker wire? Who came up with this nonsense?
Lots of people do - my cables range from 4 strands out and back of Cat5e (some people use single strands out and back) up to 30amp cooker flex and everything in between.
Lots of people do, they are solid copper and have to be made to a high spec to carry information.
Mine are single cables, with 4 coloured wires for + and 4 whites for -
I haven't messed around with any gain settings, with my ear next to the compression driver, and everything turned up, there is almost no hum or hiss.
Mine are single cables, with 4 coloured wires for + and 4 whites for -
I haven't messed around with any gain settings, with my ear next to the compression driver, and everything turned up, there is almost no hum or hiss.
If you were me, where would you start?
Begin with the source (GIGO) - so much better (aka lower noise modulation) DACs than the ones on-board the miniDSP. +1 for the Cat5 cables, I'm a devoted user too.,
Source: Yes this has to be where to start, Unless I pick up an old very good CD player/transport, the MacBook offers the convenience of being able to play any file, spits out digital (perhaps using usb& spdif is preferable to the clocked toslink?) is small quite and has a screen.
I have some Hi-Res files, some ripped CD's in iTunes, and Spotify for listening to new music.
The DAC's on the miniDSP board, I believe are quite good, but the whole board is $300, so how good can they really be. Adding DACS afterwards would be great, but at 8 channels gets complicated and expensive quick!
I have some Hi-Res files, some ripped CD's in iTunes, and Spotify for listening to new music.
The DAC's on the miniDSP board, I believe are quite good, but the whole board is $300, so how good can they really be. Adding DACS afterwards would be great, but at 8 channels gets complicated and expensive quick!
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