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Old 14th April 2013, 07:53 AM   #351
BKSL is offline BKSL  Slovakia
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I recomend to check every driver and player software combination through LINE-OUT to LINE-IN test. With different output FPS frequency which is set by driver, player and windows combination you will have different output digital filter characteristic. This makes different sound in highest.
XMplay with unified ASIO driver is good choice in WinXP for me.

And "war" with changing OPAMPs is for laughter.
If no datasheet was available, half of people would not hear any difference .

Last edited by BKSL; 14th April 2013 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 15th April 2013, 01:18 AM   #352
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Does anyone have schematics for the ST or STX?
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Old 16th April 2013, 03:45 PM   #353
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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No schematics.

I've just removed last electrolytic caps on the xonar board: Sanyo SEP 330u/16V on the 5V molex. These are mounted only on the ST board, the STX uses AFAIR 270uF oscons, series not known to me. In the datasheet SEP are good. I find other caps to better in this place. Measurements tell the same.
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Old 19th April 2013, 08:51 AM   #354
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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I'm switching to the battery clock power supply today, no voltage regulator, no caps. What may I expect to hear and measure?
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Old 19th April 2013, 12:08 PM   #355
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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Very early version
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File Type: jpg 21_02_1280.jpg (178.1 KB, 440 views)
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Old 19th April 2013, 07:06 PM   #356
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvus5 View Post
I'm switching to the battery clock power supply today, no voltage regulator, no caps. What may I expect to hear and measure?
Good idea!
I see in the pictures that you used some standard batteries. I`m not very sure it is the right solution... It is not so much power in those kind of batteries, and it may have enough internal resistance, and maybe enough noise because that. It get discharged quite fast and what`s next? Stop playing to change the batteries?
I may use an enough high power capacity battery, as Li-Ion or so, and not at least, rechargeable. A relay it have to connect/disconnect the battery to/from oscillator, when power ON/OFF. When power off, the relay can be used to connect the charger to the battery.
A mobile phone battery is the right one to be used here. It have huge A/h capacity to power that oscillator, it decharge very slowly, and is enough small.
A such battery deliver quite long time 4,2v after fully charged. It may be enough for that 5v oscillator. But I want to use an 3,3v oscillator in that place. The processor works very well with a 3,3v oscillator... But one can also use two phone batteries serial connected (7-8v) in this case...
You may calculate (assure) the right current (data sheet) for the oscillator when powered from battery. I will recommend to simulate the current/tension needed by the oscillator using first resistors network connected to the battery. Measure and assure everything is right before connect the oscillator to the battery. Do not forget to interconnect a fuse between battery and oscillator. I have experienced an oscillator which malfunction and it shorted its regulator to GND. Using battery such malfunction can end with fire...
Use very short connection wires and ferrite bead in between on power rails. You may want to use an decoupling (100 ceramic) cap right on the power inn pin of the oscillator.

I do not know how it may behave Vanguard when powered from battery. But another kind of oscillators (specially CMOS) I have powered this way it works wonderful on battery.

I will not tell much about the sound out of a such powered oscillator... You will have a pleasant surprise...

Last edited by Coris; 19th April 2013 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 25th June 2013, 08:16 AM   #357
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Well, it is a while since this my mod project were started, done and very well working.

In the last I have changed my PC motherboard, and processor. I use now Asus Z87-Deluxe and Haswell processor. Less heat inside the enclosure, less need for ventilation, more quiet machine, and the results are just unexpected high.
I see that with some more quality improvements for the components in this mod, the whole sound system it may bring just exceptional results, never attained before for a PC based sound system.

I decided to start it again this project, but this time to realize a full profesjonal kit to be attached to the Xonar STX card. I just bought a new sound card which I will use to develop and realize this kit. I think this mod it will be exclusively destined to Xonar STX sound cards, as this type of sound card is most suitable for a high end PC based sound system. I`m of that concept that the music it have to come (natural way) from the front of the listener, so the stereo system is the most natural way to bring sound information to a subject. A sound scene it have to be developed based on stereo sources.

I plan to design an extra added PCB, which it may fit the original one, and will take a smaller place inside the computer. The kit board have to be quite easy to be attached, with points to be connected to the original sound card.
This mod will have a completely new analogue output stage, powered from a analogue PSU, and an high quality clocking system, powered from battery. Additional decoupling/filtering capacities it will be placed on this extra board too. I wish to use analogue power for whole the needed tensions on this board, but so it may be needed for an extra transformer... I will see what it may be at least the right way to be done.
I think it will be a quite expensive result, but as known, high quality results it cost a little more...
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Old 19th July 2013, 03:46 PM   #358
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Hello coris I can not find the pictures on the forum.

My asus after several moddature has been shorted.

I reversed the tensions of the two linear 5v and 12v.

Now I am the 5v short. I scored 2.5 V to 3.4 A, with my peaktek 6080.

What evidence can I do, I'm in trouble.

Sorry for my Italian.
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Old 20th July 2013, 05:30 PM   #359
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Hi ciccio1112

Sorry to hear that. In this case it seems that the board it may be definitely compromised...
The only reasonable you can do, I think is to find a new sound card. Some times it happen like this and it is a part of DIY activity.

About the pictures here in the thread, I have to say that it were deleted all by mistake of an moderator for a while ago, in his try to remove some posts... This it is very regrettable. Many of these pictures are unreplaceable.
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Old 9th August 2013, 05:07 AM   #360
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Default Hello Coris.

Thank you for your thread, I have got a lot of help.

By the way, can u check the volt of the 2 Caps located right in front of RCA output?

I have changed these 2 Caps into Nichicon Muse KZ 50v 1000 uf from the backside of PCB. And I can check "0 V" from them while the card is operating. Other Caps show me between 5 to 12V.

Well..I can hear the music with 2~3 times of "click" sound at the beginning. a while later, I get to be able to keep listening different musics without any problem.

Do you think there's some problem with "0V" of those 2 Caps?

Please let me know what show from your Caps right in front of RCA output.
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