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Old 5th March 2013, 02:23 AM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coris View Post
Here is a picture where is to be seen the exact pin for clock input. Else you may have more infos in the chip datasheet attached.
Corus: what sort of objective or subjective IMPROVEMENTS have you personally heard or measured using the ... uh ... "direct-to-pin" method? That is, as opposed to the closest CONVENIENT landing (or other solder point) on the PCB ? As this related post and image from Head-Fi.org illustrates.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by hollowman; 5th March 2013 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 5th March 2013, 08:33 AM   #222
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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I don't know if you are asking Coris or me. In my case old quartz pads are not available. They were destroyed during the 1.5 hour try of desoldering it. I do not use the XTALO, I don't know the proper voltage on this line. I may take a picture to see how I made it. I made tens of them.

The thing you should notice are the two caps and resistor. They are used in your situation. If you use direct to ping case with the pin not connected to the pad, the circuit looks different.

Unfortunately I couldn't find any datasheet or more technical information about the Vanguard TCXO. No datasheet with given phase noise and suggested input voltage, no application note. Nothing. It's like the clock is non-existent to the world.
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Old 5th March 2013, 10:25 AM   #223
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Originally Posted by Corvus5 View Post
I don't know if you are asking Coris or me. In my case old quartz pads are not available. They were destroyed during the 1.5 hour try of desoldering it. I do not use the XTALO, I don't know the proper voltage on this line. I may take a picture to see how I made it. I made tens of them.
The bottom-line, AFAIC, is that lifting a pin on THIS chip (= w/ super-fine pitch) is foolish and risky. Speaking personally, I don't like to solder SMD gauges even SOIC-sized.

If you are inexperienced in soldering, as may be the case per your account above, then practice on some junk PCB to build your skills. Or are you wealthy enough to treat the Xonar as "lab" gear?
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Old 5th March 2013, 11:28 AM   #224
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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I already desoldered and soldered different pins of the chips. It's a pain. I had to use very good optical devices and helping the soldering iron with a needle to move the pin up. Still I didn't do it with the XTALI pin ;-)

I treat this card now a lab gear as I treat all the headphones I use: recabling, rejacking, driver swapping, new cases, new custom pads. Only changing driver membranes was difficult due to very small size and need of special devices for proper placement. In the case of Xonar it's nothing difficult, yet some DIY boards could be better for this. It all started with a silly opamp swapping
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Old 5th March 2013, 03:29 PM   #225
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollowman View Post
The bottom-line, AFAIC, is that lifting a pin on THIS chip (= w/ super-fine pitch) is foolish and risky.
.................................................. ...................................
Doing nothing is much better! No any risk... BTW, I can hardly see your DIY activity on this forum/thread, except "foolish and risky" propaganda.
Happy flashing... on your beloved water closet!
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Old 5th March 2013, 07:01 PM   #226
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollowman View Post
The bottom-line, AFAIC, is that lifting a pin on THIS chip (= w/ super-fine pitch) is foolish and risky. Speaking personally, I don't like to solder SMD gauges even SOIC-sized.
Hollowman, shortening the connection is a good thing. I had around 8cm cable to the 5V. After shortening it to 3cm I noticed slight change. It's still 3cm too long Soldering TSSOP is very easy with proper tools. If I were wealthy enough, I would buy better audio system with no matter how it costs. The problem is matching elements in the audio system is difficult. It's much easier and safer to match the audio system piece by modifying it and tuning.

After all, this the DIY audio forum. It's all about Doing It Yourself ;-)
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Old 5th March 2013, 10:11 PM   #227
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After all, this the DIY audio forum. It's all about Doing It Yourself ;-)
Agreed .... but there is a diff. between DIYing harder and DIYing smarter. The project Coris has outlined in this thread is unflushingly Rube Goldberg.
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Old 6th March 2013, 11:40 AM   #228
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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I can not even see where is your smart DIY project or that your smarter way to do it...
I can hardly see your in fact contribution to DIY world...
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Old 6th March 2013, 06:00 PM   #229
Corvus5 is offline Corvus5  Poland
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Going back to the thread I got the very good sound from this card. The sound was very distant, small and very detailed. Reverberation was very good. I noticed I can't touch the +/-12V line now. Any film capacitor makes the card unstable and unsable.

I came to the setting where opamp selection is critical as any negative aspect of the opamp causes major sound distortion. Usually changes are hard to measure due to many factors present in the recorded waveform. This time I catched them easily. I compared to totally different sounding opamps: OPA627 and very cheap NE5532. All on the moded xonar card. The OPA627 always had difficult mids while high freqs were most time very pleasant. The NE5532 however had quite transparent mid but the reverberation is awful. Last time I used it, the high freq tones sounded like they were doubled. This time they are awful when compared to the OPA627 smoothness. What is interesting, the NE552 has distortion at not audible frequencies. It destroys all the holographic imaging, scene depth and all other details. The mids seems to be ok...
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Old 7th March 2013, 03:11 AM   #230
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Corvus5:
For my ST, I think I use AD825 (I/V) and LT1028 (diff/out). The AD825 is a fave OPA.
I have NO idea why Coris replaced decent, stock electros with all those films. But, then, there is much about his project I don't understand.
I've heard Vanguard may soon be releasing a 0.1ppm TCXO, and that may be an economical mod -- both WRT $$ and effort.
All that said, there isn't much reason to invest much DIY time/effort into this device. The stock card is decent and allows "DIY" via the op-amp sockets. If one's DIY itch continues to flare, why not go for speaker tweaks or amp/preamp, or even some turntable mods?
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