F4 power amplifier - Page 54

lykkedk · 6th May 2007, 05:07 PM

Are the drawing's / pcb-layout, from post#575 corrected, so that Q2 sits right ?, following the toplayer ?

Jesper

veteran · 6th May 2007, 05:10 PM

Now all drawing presenting R0 version are correct because all of them point the same links on my www.

Darry · 7th May 2007, 05:17 AM

Veteran,

Why do you connect the diode D3 to +23V and D4 to -23V ?

In the schematic of the version R0 of M. Nelson Pass, D3 is connected to the drain of Q1, to R6 and P2. D4 is connected to the drain of Q2, to R7 and R5.

Darry

doggy · 7th May 2007, 01:16 PM

veteran

What is the purpose for the resistor "ra,rb"-10r and the 100nf ca,cb cap.?

thank-you

veteran · 7th May 2007, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Darry
Veteran,

Why do you connect the diode D3 to +23V and D4 to -23V ?

In the schematic of the version R0 of M. Nelson Pass, D3 is connected to the drain of Q1, to R6 and P2. D4 is connected to the drain of Q2, to R7 and R5.

Darry

I'm basing on R0 schematic from 4/17/2007. Those diodes are directly connected to (-) and (+) rails.

Additional resistors if you want to have some small separation from output stage

. Take a look at my schematic and if you don't want to use them - place jumpers.

Peter Daniel · 7th May 2007, 07:02 PM

A correction to initial schematic has been done here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...00#post1185900

Darry · 7th May 2007, 07:05 PM

Veteran,

Sorry but on R0 schematic from 4/17/2007 enclosed, those diodes are not directly connected to (-) and (+) rails.

Darry

Darry · 7th May 2007, 07:34 PM

Sorry Veteran, you have also reason.

I had the enclosed schematic R0, also from 4/17/2007 with different connection for D3 and D4 diodes.

Maybe that Nelson will say us what is the good schematic !!!

There is also a little difference between the schematic of the service manual and the R0 version.
On the service manual, the input is on R1 and for the R0 version, the input is between R1 and R2.
How to connect input ?

Nelson Pass · 7th May 2007, 11:29 PM

While both these schematics work fine, neither is the correct
version.

Peter is correct:

navigate to www.passlabs.com/np and download the f4r0 pdf.

You will note that D3 and 4 are connected slightly differently.

marsupialx · 7th May 2007, 11:56 PM

Perhaps this is too off the subject, but...
Since the biggest hassle is the enclosure,
and the biggest expense is the PS,
and since the F4 is an odd duck (a really great odd duck),
I'm thinking of building in another two channels (of a more conventional)
amplifier, utilizing the same case and power supply.
What, in your opinions, should that other amp be?
I'm leaning towards a Peter Daniel Chip amp.
Any ideas...
They wouldn't necessarily be used together, but perhaps the F4 as full range and other driving supertweeter or sub.
-Thanks - Marsupialx

6th May 2007, 05:07 PM	#531
lykkedk diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Denmark, Fredericia	Are the drawing's / pcb-layout, from post#575 corrected, so that Q2 sits right ?, following the toplayer ? Jesper __________________ DIYAudio crazy.... LeachAmp, PearlPhono, Pumpkin, F4 DualMono, DDDac, HalfChang Spk., LinuxAudio, Squeezebox substitute, Drek inductorloaded pre-amp.

6th May 2007, 05:10 PM	#532
veteran diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Poland	Now all drawing presenting R0 version are correct because all of them point the same links on my www. __________________ Simple audio solutions blog.unisonus.com

7th May 2007, 01:16 PM	#534
doggy diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Princeton B.C.	RA veteran What is the purpose for the resistor "ra,rb"-10r and the 100nf ca,cb cap.? thank-you

7th May 2007, 07:02 PM	#536
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	A correction to initial schematic has been done here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...00#post1185900 __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

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7th May 2007, 05:17 AM	#533
Darry diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Southwest	Veteran, Why do you connect the diode D3 to +23V and D4 to -23V ? In the schematic of the version R0 of M. Nelson Pass, D3 is connected to the drain of Q1, to R6 and P2. D4 is connected to the drain of Q2, to R7 and R5. Darry

7th May 2007, 11:29 PM	#539
Nelson Pass The one and only Join Date: Mar 2001	While both these schematics work fine, neither is the correct version. Peter is correct: navigate to www.passlabs.com/np and download the f4r0 pdf. You will note that D3 and 4 are connected slightly differently.

7th May 2007, 11:56 PM	#540
marsupialx diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Kansas City	Perhaps this is too off the subject, but... Since the biggest hassle is the enclosure, and the biggest expense is the PS, and since the F4 is an odd duck (a really great odd duck), I'm thinking of building in another two channels (of a more conventional) amplifier, utilizing the same case and power supply. What, in your opinions, should that other amp be? I'm leaning towards a Peter Daniel Chip amp. Any ideas... They wouldn't necessarily be used together, but perhaps the F4 as full range and other driving supertweeter or sub. -Thanks - Marsupialx

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