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#3281 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, Arizona USA
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Quote:
But Cs 1 and 2 definitely are carrying the signal; yes? If so, it makes sense to use the highest-quality caps there that we choose to afford. How about for Cs 3 and 4? |
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#3282 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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C1 & C2 are more DC level shifters , than signal carrying caps ; for better sleep , you can bypass them with something as 10nF MKC (polycarbonats) ; ;that's , at least , my fave type for bypass
C3 and C4 are there in bias circ and no need for them to be of any better quality than proper industrial type
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb
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#3283 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Yes, they are.
Quote:
f=1/2pi (R6 II R7) (C1+C2) Quote:
(I've done it in the past to similar output topologies, btw) If your filter frequency isn't critical to the 10th of an octave, just use the formula above and be done with it. @Zen Mod - C3 and C4 serve several purposes, but they are in the signal path. Do the AC signal path analysis. |
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#3284 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, Arizona USA
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Quote:
NP answered my e-mail last nite: "I would leave those caps as they are because they are used as part of the supply system for the Jfets. Presuming that this is the stock F4, the input impedance is 47.5K ohm, and you can place a capacitor in series with the input using that value for a filter." I don't like the idea of 'lytic caps in series with the signal, but what the hell do I know about it? (The answer is 'virtually nothing'.) So...replace Cs 1 and 2 with much-smaller, highest-quality caps, or add a cap at the input and improve the quality of Cs 1 and 2*? And it's more complicated than the above. I'll be using 2 amps and biamping vertically. In the low-frequency channel--that is the one with the hi-pass filtering and feeding the upper-bass/lower-MR driver and the internal bass amp--probably I'd simply add a cap at the frontend. The speaker rolls off this signal starting at 500Hz (1st-order). The upper-frequency channel would get no additional filtering but would get improved Cs 1 and 2. At least that's the 'plan' before I've even had my hands on one amp. * as in replace them with BlackGates. Last edited by jeffreybehr; 8th February 2012 at 06:43 PM. |
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#3285 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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Quote:
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb
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#3286 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Quote:
f=1/2pi x R x C where C is expressed in Farads and R in Ohms. If you do the math, you will arrive at the same simplified formula you've been using for Ohms and microFarads. Your values are correct. 0.22uF will give 72Hz :-) ========= EDIT- Oops, I was referring to F4 schematic dated 11/8/06! Now I see that actual F4 schematic r0 6/4/07 look different Last edited by elektroj; 8th February 2012 at 07:58 PM. |
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#3287 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Quote:
Last edited by elektroj; 8th February 2012 at 08:19 PM. |
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#3288 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, Arizona USA
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Quote:
TYVM all. |
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#3289 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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So, I'm considering adding a small pair of subs to my setup (DX4 in TP-1 with bridged F4s). What's the easiest way to do this? I have plenty of gain and current in the F4s to drive the additional drivers (8 ohm most likely), but not sure the best way to go about this.
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#3290 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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I'm wondering if I don't want something very similar to the B5.
Take the output from Impasse preamp and split it, first goes to (a new amp?) that powers the corner horns full range, and the second goes to the F4 which power the subs and has a passive crossover... I keep starting at the manual for the F4 and there are a lot of possibilities... |
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