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#3011 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Michigan
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Zen Mod,
Thanks for your reply. Voltage across R3 is 71.1mV. Voltage across R4 is 70.5mV. Gary |
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#3012 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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in that case everything seems fine - output mosfets are biased fine , current through input Jfets is in ballpark ;
desolder both input jfets , then inject signal at junction of C1 and C2 ; if you get sound , replace both input jfets ; if not - we'll see .....
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my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
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#3013 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Michigan
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Zen Mod- Your suggestion worked. I replaced both JFETs and adjusted DC offset. Sound is back.
Thanks for your help. Now I am ready to try Pumpkin. Gary |
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#3014 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: 3370 Vikersund
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Hello
I have started building my second pair of F4 on Villers PCB. This time I intend to try out how it will work as a headphone amplifier for my AKG K701. I do need some adwises form someone with a better electronic understanding than myself about (still running in classe A): Power voltage (lower than +/- 23 V if possible) and bias per device. Preamp will be B1 Specifications AKG K 701 Type: Circumaural, open back headphones Efficiency: 105 dB SPL /V Maximum input power: 200 mW Impedance: 62 Ohms I have a lot of 220uF/16 V cond. Can I use them as C1/C2. What about C3/C4? Sincerely Eivind Stillingen |
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#3015 |
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diyAudio Member
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You can run the amp at lower bias when your load is 62 ohm - but sounds like you already know that.
You can use the 16V caps on C1 and C2, but it might be a good idea to lower the voltage too. C3 and C4 will see a higher voltage, so you need to be careful with those. If you don't plan on using any gain, then you can lower the voltage quite a bit and still have plenty of swing without clipping. |
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#3016 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: The Netherlands, Utrecht
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Quote:
Go to the thread of Joachim and go to the 4 last pages. You'll find all you need to make a good Phone amp for your AKG. Just my 2 cents, Audiofanatic
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Be nice to animals. |
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#3017 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: 3370 Vikersund
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Audiofanatic
"Joachims thread". Can you please be more precise where to find this thread? Thank you! So to my question about a suitable power voltage and a corresponding bias for F4 driving my AKG K701 62 ohm imp. How much can I reduce both and still be in classe A. The reason I ask has influence on how big heatsinks I must use (I already have two that I hope will fit) Sincerely Eivind Stillingen |
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#3019 |
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diyAudio Member
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.... do you know this version of F4?
Could be enough for your headphone .....
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#3020 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: 3370 Vikersund
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generg
You wrote: ".... do you know this version of F4? Could be enough for your headphone". Do you mean that this can do the job alone, without B1 as "pre"? How do I fix a volumecontrol? The PCB I use is from cviller. Here is the schema he use: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs...-f4-guide.html As you can see, it is a little bit different from the version you show me. If I go for that version, as far as I can see, I have to keep Q3 and Q6 on cvillers PCB board and skip out the rest of IRF240/IRFP 9240? Will it be nessecary take away all 0,47/100 ohm resistors or can they stay (that will be the easiest way)?? D3/D4 out? What about P2: 500 ohm versus 5 Kohm R5: 1Kohm versus 3,32 Kohm R22: 750 ohm versus 1 Kohm Sincerely Eivind Stillingen |
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