F4 power amplifier - Page 240

Manu · 10th June 2008, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zen Mod
that tells you something ?

For myself, I usually don't need Starthilfe ... thanks

Thanks for hints.

Variac · 10th June 2008, 07:21 PM

Even John Curl called them Motor Start caps in his thread, , but even he MEANT Motor RUN caps. Motor run caps are polyprop in oil- yummy!

jacco vermeulen · 10th June 2008, 07:21 PM

My bad, a motor start cap is an electrolytic, motor run is polyprop foil.
I tried the motor runnners on the P1.7, not all that bad really.

(If it turns into a sour treat, at least i can repair each of the washers and dryers 200 times, should easily last me to the next millenium in my nuke bunker)

Manu · 10th June 2008, 07:28 PM

Imagine a PSU which only last a 1/2 second.
Even for minimalistic Music, its too short...

jacco vermeulen · 10th June 2008, 07:30 PM

You could make a CD like that and call yourself 50 PerCent

Manu · 10th June 2008, 07:33 PM

Mister "9 1/2 seconds" ... much better.

Zen Mod · 10th June 2008, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Variac
Even John Curl called them Motor Start caps in his thread, , but even he MEANT Motor RUN caps. Motor run caps are polyprop in oil- yummy!

who is John Curl ?

Magura · 10th June 2008, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Variac
Even John Curl called them Motor Start caps in his thread, , but even he MEANT Motor RUN caps. Motor run caps are polyprop in oil- yummy!

Motor run caps are plain metalized PP caps, but mostly better quality that the so-called audio caps.

Comar makes some of the best, and they happen to be cheap as well.

Magura

bubba177 · 11th June 2008, 08:46 PM

has anyone had a hum problem with the F4? i have a 2 inch ground bussbar with signal ground on one end and speaker and power supply grounds attached on the other end with the thermistor at that end going to chassis ground with power earth ground at that point on the chassis also.----i have tried grounding the rca grounds together and tried bypassing the thermistor but none of that makes a difference. my rectifier diodes are mounted a couple of inches from the output pcb --is this to close? maybe some stray ac? hum is the same in both channels and doesn't vary with all the pushing and prodding i do. please give me some advice -mark

Nelson Pass · 12th June 2008, 12:32 AM

Maybe you want to put all the power supply grounds on one end
and all the signal bearing grounds on the other end (including
the speaker returns) At this quiet end a power thermistor to the
chassis which is directly attached to AC outlet ground.

10th June 2008, 07:21 PM	#2392
Variac diyAudio Editor Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: San Francisco, USA	Even John Curl called them Motor Start caps in his thread, , but even he MEANT Motor RUN caps. Motor run caps are polyprop in oil- yummy! __________________ 2013 Burning Amp Festival announced: Sunday, October 6th in S.F. We need Volunteers & sign-up's for what you're bringing!

10th June 2008, 07:21 PM	#2393
jacco vermeulen diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: At the sea front, Rotterdam or Curaçao	My bad, a motor start cap is an electrolytic, motor run is polyprop foil. I tried the motor runnners on the P1.7, not all that bad really. (If it turns into a sour treat, at least i can repair each of the washers and dryers 200 times, should easily last me to the next millenium in my nuke bunker) __________________ Not so much,.......if it says "ZM" in the corner.

10th June 2008, 07:30 PM	#2395
jacco vermeulen diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: At the sea front, Rotterdam or Curaçao	You could make a CD like that and call yourself 50 PerCent __________________ Not so much,.......if it says "ZM" in the corner.

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10th June 2008, 07:28 PM	#2394
Manu diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Vienna, Ostrich	Imagine a PSU which only last a 1/2 second. Even for minimalistic Music, its too short...

10th June 2008, 07:33 PM	#2396
Manu diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Vienna, Ostrich	Mister "9 1/2 seconds" ... much better.

11th June 2008, 08:46 PM	#2399
bubba177 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: missouri	has anyone had a hum problem with the F4? i have a 2 inch ground bussbar with signal ground on one end and speaker and power supply grounds attached on the other end with the thermistor at that end going to chassis ground with power earth ground at that point on the chassis also.----i have tried grounding the rca grounds together and tried bypassing the thermistor but none of that makes a difference. my rectifier diodes are mounted a couple of inches from the output pcb --is this to close? maybe some stray ac? hum is the same in both channels and doesn't vary with all the pushing and prodding i do. please give me some advice -mark

12th June 2008, 12:32 AM	#2400
Nelson Pass The one and only Join Date: Mar 2001	Maybe you want to put all the power supply grounds on one end and all the signal bearing grounds on the other end (including the speaker returns) At this quiet end a power thermistor to the chassis which is directly attached to AC outlet ground.

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