F4 power amplifier

How did you measure the resistance from the drains to ground? What range on the ohmmeter? Did you measure the resistance from the drains to the heatsink with the heatsink isolated from ground?

I have just been using the continuity tester. When the heat sink is ungrounded, there is no continuity in any of the mosfet leads. Only when the ground wire is attached.
 
I have just been using the continuity tester. When the heat sink is ungrounded, there is no continuity in any of the mosfet leads. Only when the ground wire is attached.
The drains are connected to V+ and V-, which usually have a bleed-off resistor (2.2K in F4 Manual) to ground. Thus there will be connectivity from V+ and V- to ground. Can you measure the resistance using a multimeter with a low resistance range?
 
It is 1.3k R from drain to ground in all 3 P fets.
Pls look at this connection. The green power line from the 3-prong power socket ties to chassis and to one lead of the thermistor.The other lead of the thermistor ties to star ground which is made up of 2 green wires from the right and left psu pcbs. Is this correct per schematic? A thin pink wire connects from this *ground on the EU connector to ground on the pcb affixed to the heat sink. Is this correct per schematic? When the heat sink is bolted to the chassis it is connected to power ground. Chassis power ground and psu *ground are separated by thermistor CL10. Is 10 mean 10 Ohms?
 
Pls look at this connection. The green power line from the 3-prong power socket ties to chassis and to one lead of the thermistor.The other lead of the thermistor ties to star ground which is made up of 2 green wires from the right and left psu pcbs. Is this correct per schematic?

This is how it is wired.I think it is correct per the schematic.

A thin pink wire connects from this *ground on the EU connector to ground on the pcb affixed to the heat sink. Is this correct per schematic?

Again, correct. The pcb is grounded to the chassis.

When the heat sink is bolted to the chassis it is connected to power ground.
Chassis power ground and psu *ground are separated by thermistor CL10. Is 10 mean 10 Ohms?

It is actually a CL22 thermistor but it is indeed 10 ohms. Bolting the sink does tie it to the chassis ground and through the thermistor to the psu ground.
 
That is probably OK. Since there are diodes in the PS, you should also measure the resistance with the multimeter leads reversed.

800R with the leads one way, 1.3K when reversed.

If you measure the resistance from V+ and V- to ground with the output board disconnected you will probably see about the same resistance.

V+ is 16k to ground and V- is 3k to ground with V+/V- disconnected from the F4 board but with all grounds intact.
 
Fitting a link in C1 will apply the N FETs gate voltage to the input terminal, although I suspect that is not your main problem; check the source to heatsink insulation of all the FETs; also, build it as ZM has suggested.
 

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Thanks for ZM's schematic! Didn't know it existed.

Will definitely make changes to the board based on it.

I think the fets are well isolated. There is no continuity on any of the source pins and they all measure around the same 8k R to ground.

Generg: I will definitely try 220 mF C1 and C2. May also jumper D3 and D4 and add back R1 and R2 and be able to use the regular "In" pad.

Ihquam: Didn't mean to sound snarky. Good to hear.

Got some work to do....
 
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Friends of F4..,,.

Do you think it is possible to influence the source follower outputstage to produce more or less k2 by changing the source resistors or the values of transconductance of the lower or upper IRF similar to F6.
Or is this not possible because the IRFs produce no gain in this constellation.....?
 
RonD2,

Just had a close look at the photo of the board mounted on the heatsink in post #3753, are there any insulation washers underneath the two middle PCB mounting bolts furthest away from the FET's, it looks like the output track could be shorted to the heatsink. :magnify:

Just did a quick check and this was the problem! Thanks to you (and kasey197) for finding this.

Actually thanks to everybody here. I really appreciate the help.

Generg: Of course I shouldn't jumper the diodes. My panicked brain has found many new ways to demonstrate my electrical naiveté! I have kept the original setup as pictured.

I will post more in a bit.