DIY ZV9 boards with Inkjet Photo Paper - diyAudio
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Old 8th October 2006, 08:57 PM   #1
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Default DIY ZV9 boards with Inkjet Photo Paper

I made these boards with Staple brand Basic Inkjet Photo Paper.

I read about it on the net. http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm

The board trace is imprinter on the inkjet paper with a laser printer. A inkjet printer can't be used.

Pic od transer with paper removed:
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Old 8th October 2006, 08:59 PM   #2
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Hey Vince,
what about the black spots ?
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Old 8th October 2006, 09:02 PM   #3
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Pic of board after etching bath; before cleaning:
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Old 8th October 2006, 09:03 PM   #4
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Jacco, your fast!
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Old 8th October 2006, 09:05 PM   #5
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Nice Ha, with like 3000 miles between us.
Better hurry with the Zen9, winter's coming.

Even magnified your pics, the traces look really good, seems like a good trick.
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Old 8th October 2006, 09:07 PM   #6
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Board after rough cleaning:
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Old 8th October 2006, 09:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Even magnified your pics, the traces look really good, seems like a good trick.
I don't have a good camera for close ups.

It's better than the Tech2000 transfer film. I used the Tech2000.
This cost 1/2 of the cost of the Tec2000 and looks better. 30 sheets of the Staple Basic Photo paper cost me $9. It was on sale from $15.

One thing I should have done was keep the iron on longer.
When the paper starts to brown and the edges stick the copper, you're almost there.

It's tough to get the paper off once it's on, but the transfer is strong. It won't come off from scrubbing.
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Old 9th October 2006, 09:08 AM   #8
GuidoR is offline GuidoR  Italy
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I also used this procedure.
I used matt paper, 90g (very light), 8,30 Euro for 100 sheets...
I've made several experiments and the procedure is - almost - near to the perfection.
Tricks:
pre-heating: a thick paper between the iron and the copper seems to prevent non-homogeneus heating.
heating: pressure is as important as iron temperature is.
pealing-off: use some tensio-active (i.e. standard detergent, I use one for floor washing): you will see the paper to become transparent, and very easy to remove. Your thumbs and a toothbrush will do the rest of the work.
With a permanent marker, correct the eventual holes (take care: the ink seems to dislike the edges, two pass is better than one).
Etching: try with Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide, it's very fast (but use a mask and glasses, and protective gloves).

Try this procedure, it's really easier and useful than you can imagine (but don't mind Veteran, your boards are of another planet...)
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Old 9th October 2006, 04:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Try this procedure, it's really easier and useful than you can imagine (but don't mind Veteran, your boards are of another planet...)
Yes, they are nice boards. I used the ZV9 board as my test because it had a nice reverse image of the trace. It's also the only board I don't have!

Vince
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Old 10th October 2006, 04:58 PM   #10
azira is offline azira  United States
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Vince,
Looks really good. Now you need to find a source for super tiny drill bits. That was the tricky part for me. I've made quite a few boards using the "Press-n-peel" blue stuff.
The only thing I would comment is that it looks like you etched away quite a bit of material which "consumes" your etching solution. Next time you may consider keeping that material there, attaching it to your ground plane and only etching away a small (maybe 1/16" - 1/8") seperation around the individual traces. This way you use a lot less of your etching solution. The etching solution becomes less effective with use as the acid molecules are consumed eating away the copper.
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Danny
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