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Old 1st July 2008, 02:16 PM   #521
CeeVee is offline CeeVee  Portugal
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Cheff is building the GB one.....


...bad solder...lower left.
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Old 1st July 2008, 02:24 PM   #522
Manu is offline Manu  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by WT
I plug in my programmer board to the parallel port but not connect to u-controller board yet. (I have to use my dad PC, it is the only one that has parallel port)
Open the ponyprog
Select the AVRmicro, then select the ATmega64
I click on the wrench icon and set parallel port with AVR ISP I/O and select LPT1 then click OK.
I also try probe as Cheff suggest and it said test OK.

At this place you will want to perform the timing calibration
Menu : Setup> calibration
Run calibration? >Yes


Then I go to program options and select Reload files, Erase, Write Program memory (Flash) and Write Data memory (Eprom)
Manu

edit : Sorry CeeVeee you wrote the same ....
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Old 1st July 2008, 02:24 PM   #523
CeeVee is offline CeeVee  Portugal
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...more serious note,

from the previous reply from Cheff: it's true that after using the braid for desoldeing you can be left with a haze of dry solder.
It is good policy to just touch each pin again with the clean tip of the soldering iron just to fuse the dry solder at each pin.
That is enough most times.

The problem arises from the fact that a long cold braid will suck up the excess solder but will also lower the joint temperature and we often get as a result a cold joint.

...no pun intended.
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Old 1st July 2008, 02:41 PM   #524
CeeVee is offline CeeVee  Portugal
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..no problem Manu...two eyes are allways better.

..looks like ( unless WT fried the ATmega with excess heat or static ) that Cheff might be right...............again!
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Old 1st July 2008, 02:49 PM   #525
Manu is offline Manu  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by CeeVee
... Cheff might be right........
... as usual ...
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Old 2nd July 2008, 06:09 AM   #526
WT is offline WT
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I use solder sucker to remove the unwanted solder.
I did try to retip the solder on ATmega this morning. No luck. I guess I will buy new Atmega and redo it again. This time I will be very careful with soldering. Luckily that ATmega64 only cost around US$5 in Bangkok.
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Old 2nd July 2008, 07:09 AM   #527
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Sorry for that

Best method for desoldering the blown C while preserving the pcb : use a cutter knife and cut the pins close to the C case. Proceed gently, to avoid ripping and damaging pcb traces near the corners of the case. You'll need several cutter passes to cut the pins, but take your time. Then use solder braid to remove the pins from the pcb and clean the pcb pads.

If you have a soldering iron with a fine tip - and good eyes and steady hand, you can solder the new C pin by bin. In fact, I use this method and it works pretty well. It is best to unplug the iron when soldering, to avoid current leakages that could damage the chip. Just replug and let reheat when it gets too cold to solder.

Let us know how it goes.
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Old 4th July 2008, 09:06 AM   #528
WT is offline WT
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Cheff - Thanks so much for the great tip. I will try your method this weekend. Need to buy new chip and new small solder tip.
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Old 4th July 2008, 04:00 PM   #529
Guiness is offline Guiness  United States
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I just finished soldering up a pair of the UGS boards and a stand alone power supply boards.

I have a couple questions before I hook it all up.

- Do you have to have matched pairs for the MPSA42's or MPSA92's on the power supply board? as I did not match them.

- Do you have to match the ZTX450's & ZTX550's on the UGS boards? as did not match those either.

- Third... I am going to used a PEC carbon pot for the volume control until Twisted Pear Audio released their new Stepped Log Attenuator boards. Will a 50K log pot be fine?

Thanks for the help
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Old 4th July 2008, 04:27 PM   #530
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Quote:
Originally posted by Guiness
I just finished soldering up a pair of the UGS boards and a stand alone power supply boards.

I have a couple questions before I hook it all up.

- Do you have to have matched pairs for the MPSA42's or MPSA92's on the power supply board? as I did not match them.
Nope, no need to match

- Do you have to match the ZTX450's & ZTX550's on the UGS boards? as did not match those either.
Same answer Not Matched

- Third... I am going to used a PEC carbon pot for the volume control until Twisted Pear Audio released their new Stepped Log Attenuator boards. Will a 50K log pot be fine?
If you use it at input, yes.
Connected to output, I'd rather have a 10K log, but why not, just waiting for the TP pot.

Thanks for the help
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