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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am now prepare to make my Aleph2
I want to Spent more on the parts (resistors, Caps.....Diode....) Which Brand(s) and Model is best on Aleph2? thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Europe, Slovenia
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Silver mica in the feedback loop (the 10pf one), black gate electrolytics (next best are elna cerafines), caddock, vishay or some other exotic(?) resistors, silver wires...
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Viña del Mar, Torreon
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Nelson's prefered resistors are Dale (Vishay brand) I think he uses these in his product line. One of the suppliers for these is Parts Express, and are less expensive than the ones mentioned by skaara which are more exotic and maybe better. But for a power amp??? it's a matter of preference though since some members of this forum use them even on XO for speakers.
On my Aleph 4 I used a mixture of regular metal films and Dale MF for the 221 Ohms which is widly used on Aleph's as gate resistors |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Mouser carries Vishay Dale RN60 resistors, silver mica, and Vishay Roederstein Polyprop. caps for the film caps.
They all are decent components. You could go for more exotic parts, but these are not too expensive, easily available, and generally good parts. -- Brian |
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#5 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Near to the Pacific Ocean
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I would use any reliable and durable part available around.
The different parts might create different sounds within top few percentages at best. JH |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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i used dales, black gates, silver micas, silver solder, and still deciding on hookup wire. if you look around, you can do it cheap. i think i spent around $150 for the project thus far. all i need is the transformer and case. (2 monos)
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Which is Better compare Polar and bi-polar Cap?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
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I don't think that high end caps will make much of a difference in the Alephs. Using a good electrolytic like the Panasonic is fine. For C-5 a higher grade cap might make subtle differences if you are planning on using a balanced line stage preamp.
I used a combination of parts in mine.....almost all surplus too. Dale RN65 metal film resistors, Standard NTE electrolytics, film caps for C6, and C7, and for C8 I used a very high end cap that looks like a resistor, perhaps its ceramic. Heatsinks and chassis metal that I used was all new...Heatsinks from M&M Metals, Alumnium stock from Metal Supermarkets, PCB's by Brian GT, Toroids, filter caps and bridges were also from the same surplus place. So far the most expensive item were the heatsinks at 280.00, next was buying 100 IRFP240's, and 24 IRF9610's. I've probably spent 600.00 so far on this and there is still anodizing to do when all is said and done. I suspect at least 200.00 to get that done. I figured it might cost about 1K to do it right when I started on this. BTW: My sinks only run at 55 degrees C (69 deg f ambient) after being on for several hours, so the huge sinks were well worth getting. When I took readings the other day the bias was a tad low so I cranked that up and raised the heatsinks off the table so air could circulate up through them as in actual operation. That lowered temp by about 5 to 7 degrees c. I think this is a bit cooler than most other Alephs are running here. See this thread for pics of the sinks and other parts I used. Aleph 2 Working!! Mark |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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So how about the Solen Film cap to replace 220uf cap?
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