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Old 13th November 2012, 06:27 PM   #221
Mr. dB is offline Mr. dB  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodejuu View Post
I got the complete kit a few days ago. That kit contains 2 mainboards, 2 MC pre boards and 2 PSU boards. This threat is about the MC pre boards, so that is also what my question is about. Once again, Why wasn't "Star" not connected to "Star1" when there is room on the PCB to do so?
Is it better to connect "Star1" to GND and leave "Star" connected to 0V (so not shorting 0V to GND via this connection)?
That doesn't sound like a description of what's available from Pass DIY, so it would appear you've bought a preamp from another source? Where did you get it, and what is it? Can you post photos? We'll need more information before anyone will be able to answer your question.
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Old 13th November 2012, 11:26 PM   #222
Sodejuu is offline Sodejuu  Netherlands
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I got the kit from a friend. The board I'm talking about is the board from page 3, posting #23 of this topic. I attached the drawing of that board and marked the "Star" and "Star1" point with a red arrow.
The qoute in my first post is from posting #38 of this topic.

My question remains. Why were "Star" and "Star1" not connected in the PCB layout?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010439 (Custom).JPG (76.5 KB, 357 views)
File Type: jpg mclayout04.jpg (144.0 KB, 338 views)
File Type: jpg P1010442 (Custom).JPG (112.8 KB, 325 views)
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Old 15th July 2013, 04:35 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox View Post
Here's the Aleph-Ono MC-stage. I have used Black Gates as coupling caps.

Fox, did you keep the original values? (3 x 220 F and 47 nF MKP in parallel)

What about varying these values? Will it gain a measurable effect at the lower end?

I'd like to replace these with 330 F or even 470 F Silmic IIs and Wima FKP3 in parallel.
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Old 19th July 2013, 08:12 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by promitheus View Post
This is the correct schematic.

Illias (and all others), if you still visit this topic one question:

C7, C9 and C11 (all 220 F) seem a bit huge to me. At least C11, which is followed
by the 47 Kohm of the Pearl's MM input, shouldn't require more than a couple of F,
say max. 10 F to be safe. Meaning a MKT/MKS would do the job.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm going to replace the Pana FCs with Silmic IIs (I already have) and the bypass
PP Panas with Wima FKP3s. But the question of the proper values remains. If a MKT
oder even poly would do for C11, this most likely would be a benefit.
Before I do my own experiments (and solder several times on the boards) I'd highly
appreciate some profound comments.

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File Type: pdf pearl ONO mc2.pdf (81.9 KB, 60 views)
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Old 24th January 2014, 07:18 PM   #225
jpak is offline jpak  United States
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I've had my Pearl 1 running for a few years. A few weeks ago I noticed a channel imbalance (left side quieter than right).

The voltage drop across all the 22 ohm 2sk170 ballast resistors in both channels is 107 mv. Across R25 in the left channel it is 290 mv and 118 mv in the right. Does this sound like a 2SK389 gone bad?
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Old 25th January 2014, 11:17 PM   #226
jpak is offline jpak  United States
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Assuming it is a bad 2sk389, would I be alright replacing it with 2sk389-GR?
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Old 29th June 2014, 03:09 PM   #227
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Pearl Multi -- putting the RIAA network on a daughter card, using NXP JFETs:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 29th June 2014, 03:38 PM   #228
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Jack - neat!!

Please put me down for a PCB if you get a run made.
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Old 29th June 2014, 06:27 PM   #229
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L2 is going to resonate with C4 @1.5MHz, so will use a resistor instead.
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Old 30th June 2014, 03:08 PM   #230
omishra is offline omishra  India
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Jack! Great thinking. Will this eliminate SUT?
I am in for PCB.
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