Pearl MC Pre-Preamp - Page 2

promitheus · 27th April 2006, 04:20 PM

I don´t know if it is possible to mount the PCB on top because the output cap is too big in diameter.
That means the board must be lifted at least 30mm.
I dont know if it possible to make the PCB even smaller.
It would have to be 10cm long.
Thats not possible I think.

Do you have any other ideas?

Boban · 1st May 2006, 06:52 PM

Hi Promitheus,

just a suggestion:

Instead of DIP switches why don't you use ZIF sockets, something like this: http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/3M/W...9-00-0602J.jpg so we can experiment with the loading and the resistor brand.

Thx
Boban

promitheus · 2nd May 2006, 09:28 AM

pixpop did you check the board size?
do you htink it will fit ok on top of the Pearl or should something be changed?

pixpop · 2nd May 2006, 02:48 PM

Promitheus,

It looks like it will just fit. The height is very tight, but I think it will work. If necessary, I can mount the 3300 caps on an angle.

Are there enough people interested to make it worthwhile making the boards?

promitheus · 2nd May 2006, 02:59 PM

How are you going to mount it on the Pearl board and at what points.

There is interest for the PCBs, I am still waiting for more people to order them.

pixpop · 2nd May 2006, 03:23 PM

I'll mount it above the input section of the Pearl, with the long edge parallel to the long edge of the Pearl.

I'll extend the corner mounting post of the Pearl to the appropriate height and mount the corner hole of the MC board on that. For the other corners, I'm not sure. If possible, I will drill a hole in the Pearl PCB and screw a standoff there. But if there are tracks in the way, then I can glue a nylon standoff on top of the Pearl at that location.

Do you have a way of combining the corner of the Pearl etch pattern with the MC board as a single image so the alignment can be checked better? I don't think I have tools to do this. Or maybe combine the two component overlays into a single image to see what conflicts with what, if you line up the two corner holes. Do you know what I mean?

Well actually, if you can send them both as .jpg files at the same scale, I can do the overlay with photoshop and check it that way.

Also a new question: The MC output is now coming out close to both the MC and MM inputs. Is that going to affect stability of the MC stage, or even the MM stage?

pixpop · 2nd May 2006, 03:46 PM

The height of the output cap on the Pearl is not a problem (for me, anyway). It's the height of the 3300 uF caps on the MC board that's very tight.

promitheus · 2nd May 2006, 04:18 PM

They are as long as the other ones on the Pearl boards.
Well you cant do much about that.

How are you going to mount the board?

pixpop · 2nd May 2006, 05:27 PM

See my previous post #16

promitheus · 3rd May 2006, 03:16 PM

I want to say that I am organizing a last Pearl group buy.
If anybody wants to participate please send me an Email.

Also final MC Pre PCBs and Parts are decided.
Parts KIT costs 42,00 Euro and PCBs 22,00 Euro.
Complete KIT 64,00 Euro.
Parts are the same quality like the Pearl.
Matched 2SK170BL quads.
Please come in contact if you want to participate.

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27th April 2006, 04:20 PM	#11
promitheus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Germany	I don´t know if it is possible to mount the PCB on top because the output cap is too big in diameter. That means the board must be lifted at least 30mm. I dont know if it possible to make the PCB even smaller. It would have to be 10cm long. Thats not possible I think. Do you have any other ideas?

1st May 2006, 06:52 PM	#12
Boban diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Toronto	Hi Promitheus, just a suggestion: Instead of DIP switches why don't you use ZIF sockets, something like this: http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/3M/W...9-00-0602J.jpg so we can experiment with the loading and the resistor brand. Thx Boban

2nd May 2006, 09:28 AM	#13
promitheus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Germany	pixpop did you check the board size? do you htink it will fit ok on top of the Pearl or should something be changed?

2nd May 2006, 02:48 PM	#14
pixpop diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles	Promitheus, It looks like it will just fit. The height is very tight, but I think it will work. If necessary, I can mount the 3300 caps on an angle. Are there enough people interested to make it worthwhile making the boards?

2nd May 2006, 02:59 PM	#15
promitheus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Germany	How are you going to mount it on the Pearl board and at what points. There is interest for the PCBs, I am still waiting for more people to order them.

2nd May 2006, 03:23 PM	#16
pixpop diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles	I'll mount it above the input section of the Pearl, with the long edge parallel to the long edge of the Pearl. I'll extend the corner mounting post of the Pearl to the appropriate height and mount the corner hole of the MC board on that. For the other corners, I'm not sure. If possible, I will drill a hole in the Pearl PCB and screw a standoff there. But if there are tracks in the way, then I can glue a nylon standoff on top of the Pearl at that location. Do you have a way of combining the corner of the Pearl etch pattern with the MC board as a single image so the alignment can be checked better? I don't think I have tools to do this. Or maybe combine the two component overlays into a single image to see what conflicts with what, if you line up the two corner holes. Do you know what I mean? Well actually, if you can send them both as .jpg files at the same scale, I can do the overlay with photoshop and check it that way. Also a new question: The MC output is now coming out close to both the MC and MM inputs. Is that going to affect stability of the MC stage, or even the MM stage?

2nd May 2006, 03:46 PM	#17
pixpop diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles	The height of the output cap on the Pearl is not a problem (for me, anyway). It's the height of the 3300 uF caps on the MC board that's very tight.

2nd May 2006, 04:18 PM	#18
promitheus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Germany	They are as long as the other ones on the Pearl boards. Well you cant do much about that. How are you going to mount the board?

2nd May 2006, 05:27 PM	#19
pixpop diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles	See my previous post #16

3rd May 2006, 03:16 PM	#20
promitheus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Germany	I want to say that I am organizing a last Pearl group buy. If anybody wants to participate please send me an Email. Also final MC Pre PCBs and Parts are decided. Parts KIT costs 42,00 Euro and PCBs 22,00 Euro. Complete KIT 64,00 Euro. Parts are the same quality like the Pearl. Matched 2SK170BL quads. Please come in contact if you want to participate.