Threshold NS10 Lineamp PCB

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Re: Tooleregs

apassgear said:
I have been asked several times for suitable inductors for the CLC filter on the PSU

I’m using the hand wound simple air cores as explained on the Hints file on post 219

Cheers,

Me too. Incidentally I am adjusting another pair of Tooleregs, right now. The inductors are in the middle of the raw supplies. It is quite easy to wind a few of those. Mine are 25uH.

:)
 

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That’s a nice pic Steen, lots of Tooleregs there and shows those neat raw supplies with home made inductors… this is DIYaudio at its best.

Yes, I was also about to ask what size of lytics were you using there.

Cheers,
:)

BTW, I see you replaced R4 with trimpots... :cool: easy to set voltage now.
 
The 'lytic's are 2200uF 50V, but only because i had some in the drawer. 1500uF will be just fine, maybe even 1000uF.
I have populated 5 boards so far, and they all works out perfectly.
My plan is to power everything I can with the Toolereg. My CD-player will have something like 5 seperate reg's of the compact version. I might etch those myself, or wait for the GB. Dunno yet, depends on the time horizon for the GB.
I will post a better pic of the inductors, a little later.

Yes indeed, Tony. Trimpots are mucho easier. I read recently that Papa trust them. Thats good enough for me;)

BTW, would'nt it be a good idea to make a simple board for the raw supplies to be included in the GB? With: ->terminalblocks->rectifier's-> C->L->C->terminalblocks . Layed out as two seperate singlesupplies it would be easy to do the rectifier bridge from single diodes, and connect to the Toolereg, that accepts two seperate rail's. We could use something like those on my previous pic, as a template. It would also make it easier to experiment with different sorts of rectifier diodes, schottky's, fast/soft and whatever.

:)
 
Steen,

Yes, a small raw supply board would be very useful I might do something this weekend. The GB Gerber’s could be combined with 2 regs and one PSU boards scored to easy separate them, this way I think the cost is lower specially with these very small PCB’s.

Yes also, Nelson uses trimpots but when he can he parallels a resistor to halve the current thru it, and in case the pot goes open one still has ½ the current going thru the circuit. On the Compact I didn’t add this resistor due to space concerns.

Going for home etch on the Compact could be a bit tricky since small pads are only 2.2mm in diameter so drilling could be a bit difficult. But in the other hand you are the master of PCB’s and are always willing to take some risk. :D

Cheers,
 
Hi Dennis, ( I know I am not Apass, but I squeeze in anyway's)
The purpose of the inductor is to knock down high frequency noise, to counter the Toolereg's dropping PSRR at high freq. A CRC wont be as good at that. No harm using a CRC, but it wont help as much as the CLC.
It's rather theoretical, and one can doubt if it is detectable when music is playing;)
This is DIY, so why not use it (or not, if that is what anyone feels like) In any case the result with the L included will probably only be marginals better than the one without them, so feel free to substitue with a resistor

:)
 
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steenoe said:
Hi Dennis, ( I know I am not Apass, but I squeeze in anyway's)
The purpose of the inductor is to knock down high frequency noise, to counter the Toolereg's dropping PSRR at high freq. A CRC wont be as good at that. No harm using a CRC, but it wont help as much as the CLC.
It's rather theoretical, and one can doubt if it is detectable when music is playing;)
This is DIY, so why not use it (or not, if that is what anyone feels like) In any case the result with the L included will probably only be marginals better than the one without them, so feel free to substitue with a resistor

:)

Hi Steen,

Thanks for your valuable comment. It might be fun to try
it both ways.

Now where did I put that sewing machine... :)

Cheers,
Dennis
 
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Joined 2004
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Those are great finds Twitch, even the small one MuRata 22R473C (47uH) is enough for most applications with its rating at 0.77A, DCR of 0.22Ohms and @ $0.60 each is a steal.

Now you may want to use two of them, one on the rail and one on the ground leg which of course will be better.

Cheers,
:cool:
 
Guys, we need your input here… :smash:

I was searching this side of the Atlantic for Wima caps (C1,C2 and C3) but they seem to be almost nonobtanium at least pricewise. Colin suggested looking at Mouser but they are expensive if I’m reading correctly. Don’t really know the situation in Europe but I guess there should be no problem over there.

Suggestions for suppliers and/or alternatives? Polyprop? Polyester?

Just you don’t need to look back to the schematic, here are the values.

C1 = 1nf = 1000pf (originally proposed as polyprop FKP2’s)
C2 = 4.7uf X2 (originally proposed as polyester MKS2’s)
C3 = 10nf = 10,000pf or 0.01uf (originally proposed as polyprop FKP2’s) :)
 
That’s great Magura, thanks... maybe that will also take care of Americas. Any idea on cost for those parts?

In the other hand I have found suitable MKP’s around here one brand from Illinois Capacitors (IC) on 5 and 7.50mm lead spacing for C1 and C3 from Allied, availability has to be check though.

A second alternative is Vishay 1841 MKP’s from Newark on 7.50mm leadspace at less than 0.50$ apiece, seems a good candidate also, availabitity has to be checked.

Still pending to check C2, I’ll do that later.
:)
 
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