Hi guys!
I got my sl10 working with silmics, it sound very good, better as before. More musical, more dynamics, also a bit darker, but not that clear as I used to have. Will it chance after some burning in? I give it a try, but for so far now it sounds good. My other sl10, an older one, sounds more powerful and I think better in balance. I did not use tantalums but normal silmics for the 47uf, because in this later model, there where no tantalums only in the earlyer one. I will chance that too after a while, to hear if there is a difference. I will let you now. I only did not have the time to put the new tentlabs shunt regulators in it. I will give it a try next week GRTZ Teake
I got my sl10 working with silmics, it sound very good, better as before. More musical, more dynamics, also a bit darker, but not that clear as I used to have. Will it chance after some burning in? I give it a try, but for so far now it sounds good. My other sl10, an older one, sounds more powerful and I think better in balance. I did not use tantalums but normal silmics for the 47uf, because in this later model, there where no tantalums only in the earlyer one. I will chance that too after a while, to hear if there is a difference. I will let you now. I only did not have the time to put the new tentlabs shunt regulators in it. I will give it a try next week GRTZ Teake
Help Replacing SL-10 Capacitors
Hi All,
I'm new to this forum and need alittle help. I have a SL-10 and want to replace all the old capacitors. Currently it has all silver blue Instrument Devices caps in it and I thought I would go with Elna Cerafine caps. Anyway since the current caps are not marked as to which side is + and which is - can anyone tell me how I can determine which side of the cap is + and which is - there is a white arrow that goes down one side of each cap, would that be the negitive marker? thanks for the help.
Dave
Hi All,
I'm new to this forum and need alittle help. I have a SL-10 and want to replace all the old capacitors. Currently it has all silver blue Instrument Devices caps in it and I thought I would go with Elna Cerafine caps. Anyway since the current caps are not marked as to which side is + and which is - can anyone tell me how I can determine which side of the cap is + and which is - there is a white arrow that goes down one side of each cap, would that be the negitive marker? thanks for the help.
Dave
Hi guys,
I re-open this topic because I'm interested on a SL10 buying.
Seller is a german who gave me next info:
the preamp has been modified by a German HiFi Company
(Outsider Team and Beyer Eletronics), che caps have been improved (he did not specified type/brand) and new volume-poti by Pabst has been installed.
Someone of you, guys, know about german OTBE modifying? It's really an improvement?
It seems there is a german SL10 expertise owner in this forum... Jurgen "Audiotux"...?...
Thanks so much for help,
Nino
I re-open this topic because I'm interested on a SL10 buying.
Seller is a german who gave me next info:
the preamp has been modified by a German HiFi Company
(Outsider Team and Beyer Eletronics), che caps have been improved (he did not specified type/brand) and new volume-poti by Pabst has been installed.
Someone of you, guys, know about german OTBE modifying? It's really an improvement?
It seems there is a german SL10 expertise owner in this forum... Jurgen "Audiotux"...?...
Thanks so much for help,
Nino
Two comments:
1) Judging from the thread you started about solid state preamps and tube amps, it seems to me that this is an idea to approach with caution. If you are used to, and prefer, the sound of tubes, you may not be happy with solid state, regardless whose design it is.
2) I am always wary of people touting modified pieces of equipment. Although I'm a big fan of modifying things, I find that there are lots of people out there who absolutely, positively, beyond all shadow of a doubt have no clue what they're doing. None.
Whether a modification is an improvement not only depends on the concept, but on parts quality and on execution. I have recently seen some really horrendous modifications perpetrated by people who were ignorant of even the most rudimentary knowledge of how to solder, much less how to intelligently change a circuit.
Buyer beware.
Grey
1) Judging from the thread you started about solid state preamps and tube amps, it seems to me that this is an idea to approach with caution. If you are used to, and prefer, the sound of tubes, you may not be happy with solid state, regardless whose design it is.
2) I am always wary of people touting modified pieces of equipment. Although I'm a big fan of modifying things, I find that there are lots of people out there who absolutely, positively, beyond all shadow of a doubt have no clue what they're doing. None.
Whether a modification is an improvement not only depends on the concept, but on parts quality and on execution. I have recently seen some really horrendous modifications perpetrated by people who were ignorant of even the most rudimentary knowledge of how to solder, much less how to intelligently change a circuit.
Buyer beware.
Grey
Thanks for answers Juergen,Grey and "Retro".
In truth I am very happy with my tubeamps (ARC SP10/D115) especially in the vinyl listening; some less in digital because preamp's high level inputs are not good as phono.
However the major reason for which I want to purchase a solid state preamp is that in the summer with the warm temps we have here in Sicily
, I usually stop music listening because with heat developed by tubes I should hear naked and absorbed in a tub of water with dices of ice... 
Other drawback, as all you know, is that if you want to listen to music for only a half hour, it is not worth of not even to turn on tubeamps...
Then to obviate I have decided to purchase a new amplification to use in the summer or in less binding listening (in the morning when I shave me...) .
In the last weeks I have purchased a cheap but very good vintage power, a Pioneer M73, and now it is the time of the preamp.
From what I have explained, you can understand that I look for one with a good line input, to improve that unexceptional of SP10; which sounds well with my tube-power, and in the summer can cheer me with the delicious M73.
I have been able to try in my system a Sony TAE86B (very beautiful but bad with tubes); a Burmester 838 (excellent, but only phono); a ML and a Krell, not good in my system; a JR Coherence 1, excellent; a Pass Aleph, splendid, and a Thresh Fet Ten, also excellent.
I have not tried other, but to the light of the done tests, I think that with a Threshold/Pass I should not be wrong and for not spend a lot of money the SL10 should be the optimal solution... I have never heard it, but from what I have read it is one of Mr. Pass' best products.
But I should find a good shape one (by the way, there is one on Audiogon with new Elna caps... what do you think of it?).
Well, excuse me if I have dwelled too much, but you have asked...
If I'll not resolve my problem, will mean that I'll spend my money in a beautiful (Mosfet
) basin to fill with frozen water and to dip in my feet in the summer during my music listening...
Best best best wishes and greets,
Nino
In truth I am very happy with my tubeamps (ARC SP10/D115) especially in the vinyl listening; some less in digital because preamp's high level inputs are not good as phono.
However the major reason for which I want to purchase a solid state preamp is that in the summer with the warm temps we have here in Sicily
, I usually stop music listening because with heat developed by tubes I should hear naked and absorbed in a tub of water with dices of ice... Other drawback, as all you know, is that if you want to listen to music for only a half hour, it is not worth of not even to turn on tubeamps...
Then to obviate I have decided to purchase a new amplification to use in the summer or in less binding listening (in the morning when I shave me...) .
In the last weeks I have purchased a cheap but very good vintage power, a Pioneer M73, and now it is the time of the preamp.
From what I have explained, you can understand that I look for one with a good line input, to improve that unexceptional of SP10; which sounds well with my tube-power, and in the summer can cheer me with the delicious M73.
I have been able to try in my system a Sony TAE86B (very beautiful but bad with tubes); a Burmester 838 (excellent, but only phono); a ML and a Krell, not good in my system; a JR Coherence 1, excellent; a Pass Aleph, splendid, and a Thresh Fet Ten, also excellent.
I have not tried other, but to the light of the done tests, I think that with a Threshold/Pass I should not be wrong and for not spend a lot of money the SL10 should be the optimal solution... I have never heard it, but from what I have read it is one of Mr. Pass' best products.
But I should find a good shape one (by the way, there is one on Audiogon with new Elna caps... what do you think of it?).
Well, excuse me if I have dwelled too much, but you have asked...
If I'll not resolve my problem, will mean that I'll spend my money in a beautiful (Mosfet
) basin to fill with frozen water and to dip in my feet in the summer during my music listening... Best best best wishes and greets,
Nino
a thought:
Mywing - just be aware that most of the differences we hear in stock gear is merely comparing one junk part to another, and not really in any way associated with the circuit design itself. It just makes me shake my head in pathetic disdain when reading a review on some piece of equipment that some reviewer drags on and on for months only to be followed up being revealed that some cheap caps are in the power supply or signal path. The state of audio should be light years ahead but seems to be the only field that rejects progress. If I had the answer as to why I'd state it here but I'm actually at a loss to know myself, as others have wondered as well. And no, I don't speak for all gear but there is a lot that I do.
Mywing - just be aware that most of the differences we hear in stock gear is merely comparing one junk part to another, and not really in any way associated with the circuit design itself. It just makes me shake my head in pathetic disdain when reading a review on some piece of equipment that some reviewer drags on and on for months only to be followed up being revealed that some cheap caps are in the power supply or signal path. The state of audio should be light years ahead but seems to be the only field that rejects progress. If I had the answer as to why I'd state it here but I'm actually at a loss to know myself, as others have wondered as well. And no, I don't speak for all gear but there is a lot that I do.
Re: a thought:
So all equipment sounds alike, assuming equivalent parts? Before you indulge in 'pathetic disdain' I suggest you build a few of the Zen series, which have wildly varying topologies. Use any sort of parts that suit you. They do not sound the same.
There are more fertile fields to plow if you set your sights on levels of negative feeback, inadequate power supply design, bias, etc. than saying that parts quality is the primary determinant of sound quality. Is parts quality important? Yes. Is it the be-all, end-all? No.
Grey
RetroAudio said:
So all equipment sounds alike, assuming equivalent parts? Before you indulge in 'pathetic disdain' I suggest you build a few of the Zen series, which have wildly varying topologies. Use any sort of parts that suit you. They do not sound the same.
There are more fertile fields to plow if you set your sights on levels of negative feeback, inadequate power supply design, bias, etc. than saying that parts quality is the primary determinant of sound quality. Is parts quality important? Yes. Is it the be-all, end-all? No.
Grey
Saw this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=103275
and remembered from years gone all what we talked and did with the various iterations on the classic NS10 and some rambling on the SL10 on this thread too… and though it would be cool to try this one too as a line stage at least for me.
Some of the goodies on this topology is that has double polarity PSU so no caps on the signal path and that is has a servo to control the DC at the output, nice in this case from my point of view. And finally also from MPOV is that it’s a single ended design which I happen to like. Oh yes…also fewer parts count
I did happen to find what I think is the original schematic in one of the various threads on the topic but of course Nelson has the last word if this is really the original schematic.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1665823&stamp=1227418567
From this last link I draw the attached schematic witch seems a bit clearer to work with Please let me know on any error since I plan to make a layout to etch some boards since I do have some available time now.
Of course now a day it’s tempting to replace the 4 front end tranies with JFET and maybe use +-9V PSU (from batteries for testing purposes). Any takers for this iteration? Maybe EUVL, ZM, Andrew…. so many other nice guys around which are more capable than me.
and remembered from years gone all what we talked and did with the various iterations on the classic NS10 and some rambling on the SL10 on this thread too… and though it would be cool to try this one too as a line stage at least for me.
Some of the goodies on this topology is that has double polarity PSU so no caps on the signal path and that is has a servo to control the DC at the output, nice in this case from my point of view. And finally also from MPOV is that it’s a single ended design which I happen to like. Oh yes…also fewer parts count
I did happen to find what I think is the original schematic in one of the various threads on the topic but of course Nelson has the last word if this is really the original schematic.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1665823&stamp=1227418567
From this last link I draw the attached schematic witch seems a bit clearer to work with Please let me know on any error since I plan to make a layout to etch some boards since I do have some available time now.
Of course now a day it’s tempting to replace the 4 front end tranies with JFET and maybe use +-9V PSU (from batteries for testing purposes). Any takers for this iteration? Maybe EUVL, ZM, Andrew…. so many other nice guys around which are more capable than me.
Guess the SL10 will appeal to guys wanting a RIAA phono gain stage since most others will be happy enough with the simplicity of the B1 buffer if what you need is only the vol control.
Anyway, here is a link to a review and specs of the SL10 @ Audiogon.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?rprea&1202765651
Cheers,
Anyway, here is a link to a review and specs of the SL10 @ Audiogon.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?rprea&1202765651
Cheers,
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