Black copper
I'm not sure about that. I have my roots in power electronics and it's very usual stuf. Maybe it's some alloy. Before mounting clean it with spirits and don't touch it with your "stickey fingers".
Mostly i use tinned copper,as you can see,but sometimes it's not availibleb at the moment you need it.
Upupa Epops said:This copper parts will be after one year black ( CuS ) - right " macho " make it from GOLD PLATED COPPER ..., it is 100% " Satisfaction "....
I'm not sure about that. I have my roots in power electronics and it's very usual stuf. Maybe it's some alloy. Before mounting clean it with spirits and don't touch it with your "stickey fingers".
Mostly i use tinned copper,as you can see,but sometimes it's not availibleb at the moment you need it.
Something more about relais control and power management of this AX.
At this moment i can't post the schematics because the scan of my old-fashioned hand signed paper was 200k.
I need some time to do it again in Eagle.
For this moment i will try it with words.
At the backside you see two switches. A small one for switching off the speaker relais and a large switch(stotz) for turning on the main trafo and caps.
When you put the 230V in the back, the control board get supply indicated by a small green led on the backside. After that you can switch on the stotz and the main supply rush in via 2 ntc's. After a few seconds a relais bypasses the ntc's. (All delay circuits have a discharge mechanism for working proper by quick on/off on/off situation's).
Now the supply is ready and with the vandal proof button at the front side you can control the amp.
Pressing 10 seconds or more switches two relais for the dc-voltage on driver and powerboards. The blue led glows on(mostly too bright). Ten seconds after that the speaker relais turns on indicated by a small red led on the backside. Now the amp starts burning.(increasing your energy bill).
If you want to select high or low power level you touches the button for 1 second and the mosfets relais turns over. (Low level is 25w by 4 fet's and high level is 75w by 12 fet's indicated by a small red led above the blue one).These 4 small relais swich the gate off and connect it to the source. If you don't do that you get a floating gate with uncontroled drain currents which blows up your fuse or produse some smoke signals.
Every time you touches the button the speaker relais turns off for a few seconds so there are never blups and clics.
For standby mode you presses the button for 10 seconds again and the blue led stops glowing
Cheers,
Johan.
At this moment i can't post the schematics because the scan of my old-fashioned hand signed paper was 200k.
I need some time to do it again in Eagle.
For this moment i will try it with words.
At the backside you see two switches. A small one for switching off the speaker relais and a large switch(stotz) for turning on the main trafo and caps.
When you put the 230V in the back, the control board get supply indicated by a small green led on the backside. After that you can switch on the stotz and the main supply rush in via 2 ntc's. After a few seconds a relais bypasses the ntc's. (All delay circuits have a discharge mechanism for working proper by quick on/off on/off situation's).
Now the supply is ready and with the vandal proof button at the front side you can control the amp.
Pressing 10 seconds or more switches two relais for the dc-voltage on driver and powerboards. The blue led glows on(mostly too bright). Ten seconds after that the speaker relais turns on indicated by a small red led on the backside. Now the amp starts burning.(increasing your energy bill).
If you want to select high or low power level you touches the button for 1 second and the mosfets relais turns over. (Low level is 25w by 4 fet's and high level is 75w by 12 fet's indicated by a small red led above the blue one).These 4 small relais swich the gate off and connect it to the source. If you don't do that you get a floating gate with uncontroled drain currents which blows up your fuse or produse some smoke signals.
Every time you touches the button the speaker relais turns off for a few seconds so there are never blups and clics.
For standby mode you presses the button for 10 seconds again and the blue led stops glowing
Cheers,
Johan.
Listening session
Hallo Teake,
Last sunday evening i make a fast setup in my living room and connect the AX's
I also connect a Aleph 1.7 pre but that amp is not finished yet
(not wife and little boy proof)so it was a temporary listening session. Normally i listen to a P11(A&T) tube-pre with a modificated Sony TA 80 poweramp and Monitor Audio studio 2 speakers combined with a Rell sub.
Comparing the sound was difficult because pre and power were differend and the AX's changed
a lot in time. They had some burn in time on low power mode but i didn't that on high power.
Nevertheless After 1 hour or so the AX's awoke and i start to like the sound.
Esspecialy in the low area there was a more powerfull fundament but mid and high was as
usual. I expected more but maybe they need some more playing time.
The case is all custom made combined with Seifert heatsinks.I have some connections in the
"aluminium world". For details please sent me an email then i can answer in dutch.
Gr.
Johan
intense-tavda said:
Hallo Teake,
Last sunday evening i make a fast setup in my living room and connect the AX's
I also connect a Aleph 1.7 pre but that amp is not finished yet
(not wife and little boy proof)so it was a temporary listening session. Normally i listen to a P11(A&T) tube-pre with a modificated Sony TA 80 poweramp and Monitor Audio studio 2 speakers combined with a Rell sub.
Comparing the sound was difficult because pre and power were differend and the AX's changed
a lot in time. They had some burn in time on low power mode but i didn't that on high power.
Nevertheless After 1 hour or so the AX's awoke and i start to like the sound.
Esspecialy in the low area there was a more powerfull fundament but mid and high was as
usual. I expected more but maybe they need some more playing time.
The case is all custom made combined with Seifert heatsinks.I have some connections in the
"aluminium world". For details please sent me an email then i can answer in dutch.
Gr.
Johan
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