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Old 20th October 2005, 06:54 PM   #41
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi Jason,
PM me and let me know exactly what you need done. I want to make sure I can do it for you before saying yes. My link works.

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Old 20th October 2005, 06:54 PM   #42
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Mark's method is ideal, but I have achieved good results using a sheet of glass with 1200 grit wet and dry, resting on the bed of my table saw.
Rick: Oh Cliff / Sometimes it must be difficult not to feel as if / You really are a cliff / when fascists keep trying to push you over it! / Are they the lemmings / Or are you, Cliff? / Or are you Cliff?
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Old 20th October 2005, 06:58 PM   #43
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I use glass too Al for lapping out the slot in Malteese Crosses for film projectors. Gotta count each swipe and keep track of it all so one slot doesn't end up wider than the others . I still think a local Grinding shop would do something like that very reasonably on a set of sinks, probably less then 40.00 US. It would then definately be a presision surface!

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Old 20th October 2005, 07:04 PM   #44
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi Mark,
Well, you don't actually use a sanding block to lap a surface!! Normally special tools made fomr brass have to be made up to lap a surface.
Sure you can! As I mentioned, mine are made from titanium (from a turbine engine plant - not mentioned). Any machinist's block will work fine. The tolerance is not as fine as you indicate since only the local mounting area for the part needs to be true, and we are improving over what the original surface was. Most people just "crank em down". We do not require a lapped surface down to 1200 grit or better.

Now if you want a mirror surface, you are quite right. I think a large improvement can be made just getting rid of most of the surface imperfections. Filing is also effective, I've done it that way and finished with 600, then the back of the paper. Shiny oooo.

Really, what someone can do easily at home is a big improvement some times. That's all my point is.

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