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Old 11th July 2005, 07:24 AM   #41
docjoe is offline docjoe  Europe
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yes, I would not sell mine...if I had apogees..
I've bought a dead 400...
I'm gonna breethe some life into it again
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Old 11th July 2005, 10:55 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by steenoe
[B]But the impedance is hopeless[B]
So is the sound.
If i wished to clone an Apogee, i'd jank a cat by the tail, gives me the same kind of shivers.
Tell the owner he is hopeless, the amplifier is hopeless, buy it and revamp it.
The exterior looked brandnew on the pics you posted, Bruce SunburnSteen.
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Old 12th July 2005, 10:02 PM   #43
steenoe is offline steenoe  Denmark
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Quote:
The exterior looked brandnew on the pics you posted, Bruce SunburnSteen.
I am not sure I can convince him to sell it to me, at least not cheap I figure he will get suspicious I have to go gently on that one But you are right Jacco, the amp is in perfect condition on the outside.

Steen, still overheated
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Old 17th July 2005, 11:35 PM   #44
steenoe is offline steenoe  Denmark
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Quote:
If i wished to clone an Apogee, i'd jank a cat by the tail, gives me the same kind of shivers.
Here is your "cat", Jaccoman I couldnt resist, taking a few pic's of those "room-dividers". Quite impressive work

Steen
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Old 23rd March 2006, 06:47 PM   #45
steenoe is offline steenoe  Denmark
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I choose to reopen this thread since the amp is playing music again. The information might turn out useful for somebody else.
Well the owner of the Stasis brought it to a guy with some experience in repairing amp's. You wont beleive it, but the cause of all the problems was simply the 3 electrolytics on each pc board!
The guy soldered in 3 new caps per channel and the amp sounds just great again I just went and visited my old friend and I was just surprised that the solution was that simple. It just goes to show that when you have trouble with an old amp, swap out the caps The diode bar had a bad solder somewhere so thats working again too Thats what you get for trying too hard to find some failure. No need to change all the output devices and everything else with them. The repair costed the owner something like 50 bucks.
Happy ending indeed.

Steen.
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Old 23rd March 2006, 07:10 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by steenoe
It just goes to show that when you have trouble with an old amp, swap out the caps The diode bar had a bad solder somewhere so thats working again too
Good advice on both counts.
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Old 23rd March 2006, 11:42 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally posted by steenoe
You wont beleive it, but the cause of all the problems was simply the 3 electrolytics on each pc board!
The guy soldered in 3 new caps per channel and the amp sounds just great again
That's true also of many PC board failures. Lytics are the week components on any electronic circuitry.

My son gives away many fine PC boards including motherboards and video cards, I just replace the caps and they have a second life on one of my computers. No matter how much you pay for those components they are dead in 3 or 4 years for that reason.

One interesting fact on my son’s last video card acquisition, all caps were rated at 125V never saw that before and it also sported some OsCon caps - which might not be that uncommon this days.
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Old 4th February 2007, 09:02 AM   #48
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Default Threshold Help

The outputs will give you the most trouble. You need to use Motorola output devices or risk lots of oscillation. Replace the small caps on the driver cards with some nichicon 470 u, 16V
47uF 63 or 100V
The main caps are probably worn out too, but you should be able to at least make it work. Lift the emitter resistors and measure with a diode checker to determine which output devices are bad.

JOn
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Old 25th June 2007, 11:38 PM   #49
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Jon, Nelson, or anyone, I have a pair of Stasis 2s that I will be using to power my bi-amped Apogee Duetta Signatures (directly coupled to each driver, electronic crossover only).

Both amps have a little more DC offset than they should:

Amp #1: R= 0.215 Vdc L= 0.140 Vdc biased to 42-43 degrees C.

Amp #2: R= 0.095 Vdc L= 0.070 Vdc biased to 47-48 degrees C.

Also, I replaced all the electrolytics both big (4 x 22000uF) and small (Blackgates) on both amps.

Both of these amps sound great especially now that the electrolytics have replaced, but even when using amp #2 to drive the tweeter sections, that small amount of DC offset causes the tweeter ribbon to move out of it "home" position. Previously, I used a Threshold S-150 Series II that has a DC offset low enough(L=0.050Vdc R=0.045Vdc) not to adversely effect the tweeter ribbons.

Question: How can I lower the DC offset of my two Stasis 2 amps? Is this a sign of other aged components that are in need of replacement? If so where should I start?

Thanks

Forrest
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Old 26th June 2007, 06:33 PM   #50
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You will find a schematic at www.passlabs.com/np

On it you will find at the negative rail a 300 ohm resistor
between the negative rail and the emitter of an A42 transistor.

Adjusting this value slightly will alter the offset.

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