Thanks for the kind words Bartek!
I have made some more tests on the attenuator board now. It looks like the performance may be adequate for audio use
My test setup was this:
HP200CD oscillator (with floating transformer output) into the attenuator board. The balanced output from that went into a single op.amp. differential amp (I used ½ a 5532) to convert the signal to unbalanced. The output level was measured with a HP 334A.
The frequency response is worst at no attenuation for some reason (-3dB at 490kHz). I got the same value at 3dB attenuation. At the other points I measured (6dB att. and down) the -1dB point was at 290kHz or higher (higher than 600kHz at some positions).
These measurements were made on a low(ish) impedance attenuator (10k total input impedance). If you use higher impedance resistors the frequency response will deteriorate (or the channel separation will, if you use the attenuator for four channels instead of two balanced channel).
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
I have made some more tests on the attenuator board now. It looks like the performance may be adequate for audio use
My test setup was this:
HP200CD oscillator (with floating transformer output) into the attenuator board. The balanced output from that went into a single op.amp. differential amp (I used ½ a 5532) to convert the signal to unbalanced. The output level was measured with a HP 334A.
The frequency response is worst at no attenuation for some reason (-3dB at 490kHz). I got the same value at 3dB attenuation. At the other points I measured (6dB att. and down) the -1dB point was at 290kHz or higher (higher than 600kHz at some positions).
These measurements were made on a low(ish) impedance attenuator (10k total input impedance). If you use higher impedance resistors the frequency response will deteriorate (or the channel separation will, if you use the attenuator for four channels instead of two balanced channel).
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi Mikkel thanx for your info again. can i ask a couple more questions??? Hope im not being a pain.
Do you charge VAT to international buyers ( Australia )?
Do only the remotes you supply work with your kits or can i buy my own from here?
Thanx again - sorry to be a pain though!!
Regards
Bowdown
Do you charge VAT to international buyers ( Australia )?
Do only the remotes you supply work with your kits or can i buy my own from here?
Thanx again - sorry to be a pain though!!
Regards
Bowdown
bowdown said:
No, but you have to subtract the VAT yourself. The shop software was originally made for Denmark only, and I haven't had time to "fix" that yet.
No, most universal remotes should work. I have only had problems with some very cheap types (most of the cheap ones do work though).
No problem.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hey Mikkel sorry to bother you so much but was going to ask if the items i am going to purchase of you are all in kit form (i gotta put it together myself) or are they pre built and tested?? This is what i am going to buy from you.....for now
Control2
C2Panel1-1
C2Panel1-2
C2Panel2
Input1
RelVol1
RelVol1RM
IRDet2
LCD24x2B
total ex V.A.T = 173.44 euros inc freight
total inc V.A.T = 214.64 euros inc freight
How can i change the price to ex V.A.T at the end of the order? I will be paying via B-Pay.
Regards
Bowdown
Control2
C2Panel1-1
C2Panel1-2
C2Panel2
Input1
RelVol1
RelVol1RM
IRDet2
LCD24x2B
total ex V.A.T = 173.44 euros inc freight
total inc V.A.T = 214.64 euros inc freight
How can i change the price to ex V.A.T at the end of the order? I will be paying via B-Pay.
Regards
Bowdown
bowdown said:
They are kits - unless you want to pay me for assembling them (and wait untill I have the time to do so...). If you have done some PCB soldering before, these should be no problem to assemble.
You can't change the price to ex VAT, but all that happens is that you will get an order confirmation email with the amount 214.64 - you just pay 173.44 instead.
I have never heard of BPay, but from the website it looks like something that's Australian only. So unless BPay makes a transfer to my account, you probably can't use them. The website mentions that I should contact my bank, if I want to accept BPay payments - the only problem is, that I haven't got a bank account in Australia...
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
.I hear that the X-BOSOZ parts will be shipping out to GP diy members soon .....
Mikkel,
1) For balanced and unbalanced input selector. Is "Input 2" the right kit to use?
2) For balanced attenuator, is "RelVol3" the right kit to use? How come it does not come with resistors? Or rather, which kit is the resistors for the 10k balanced attenuators?
3) For display, which kit should I use - keeping in mind the above requirement?
4) For the remote control board to the display board, which kit is suitable? Is the hand held remote control included?
5) Is the transformer that you list under the accessories section suitable for powering the above kits? It's 120V here in USA.
6) Do I need anything else for a complete installation?
7) How much are the kits mentioned above in US dollars?
8) Shipping is still 3 to 5 days?
9) Do you accept payment by Paypal?
Mikkel,
1) For balanced and unbalanced input selector. Is "Input 2" the right kit to use?
2) For balanced attenuator, is "RelVol3" the right kit to use? How come it does not come with resistors? Or rather, which kit is the resistors for the 10k balanced attenuators?
3) For display, which kit should I use - keeping in mind the above requirement?
4) For the remote control board to the display board, which kit is suitable? Is the hand held remote control included?
5) Is the transformer that you list under the accessories section suitable for powering the above kits? It's 120V here in USA.
6) Do I need anything else for a complete installation?
7) How much are the kits mentioned above in US dollars?
8) Shipping is still 3 to 5 days?
9) Do you accept payment by Paypal?
Hey there
I bought the relvol3 input2 and control1. I am very happy with them. The input is balanced and unbalanced. It switches with muting inbetween. For the vol you need to specify the resistance you want ie 10k. Powering is quite flexable and the kits all connect together so you only need to power the input board.
I am very happy with the kits and would recommend them.
dave
I bought the relvol3 input2 and control1. I am very happy with them. The input is balanced and unbalanced. It switches with muting inbetween. For the vol you need to specify the resistance you want ie 10k. Powering is quite flexable and the kits all connect together so you only need to power the input board.
I am very happy with the kits and would recommend them.
dave
Yes, you have two balanced, three unbalanced and the unbalanced tape input on the Input2.fcel said:
The RelVol3 is OK yes. It comes without resistors because some people want to use exotic $10 resistors rather than the standard metal films. If you want resistors for 10k, you just need two of the 10k resistor kits.
For use with the Control2 you will need a 2*16 display or bigger.
You can use the Control1 or Control2 with a frontpanel. The remote is not included, so you can either order one from me, or just use a normal universal remote.
Yes, but you only really need the +5V supply. So a standard 6-12V AC or 8-15V DC wall-wart will work fine.
No, I don't think so - if you make a list I can tell you if anything's missing.
1 euro is 1.24 USD today. You don't have to pay VAT, so look at the VAT-less prices.
Yes, from the time you order till it's shipped. I have a full-time job as well...
Yes.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Just to clarify what I mean by adjusting volume by turning a knob.
The first thing that came to my mind is the Mark Levinson ML38 pre-amp. To adjust volume, it has some kind of opto sensor (I think) to sense the rotational movement of the knob.
Can you - or should I say, do you want to - design something like ML38 to work with your attenuator board?
The first thing that came to my mind is the Mark Levinson ML38 pre-amp. To adjust volume, it has some kind of opto sensor (I think) to sense the rotational movement of the knob.
Can you - or should I say, do you want to - design something like ML38 to work with your attenuator board?
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