Heatsinks for Bosoz?

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Something like this?
 

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Hi there

Kari , nice work there. There seems to be alot of activity in this thread , are we preparing for a group buy once Kari has finalised the boards and found a manufacturer ? Kari have you spoken to the people BrianGT uses ? I know they would be in the states but It might work out ok . Just trying to guage wether I should get excited ... hehe
regards
dave
 
steenoe said:
Kari, thank you very much for the update:) Good to hear from you again;) The board look great.

Steen.

BTW What is the best rectifier diode for this PSU, Schotky's?


I plan on using FREDs myself, I wonder if ther is anyway to convince Kari to accomodate at least one style of FRED on his board? :) :)

BTW Kari, the boards look smashing, if your Aelph boards are anything to go buy, these boards should be big hit for a group buy.

Regards

Anthony
 
Kari said:
What package would those FREDs be? TO220? Is heatsinking needed? Maybe you can post modelnbr. you are going to use so i can dig up a datasheet of it?

/Kari


Good Morning Kari, TO220 package would be great, for the powersupply Heatsinking is not really required. I run the Power supply on my standard BOSOZ with TO247AC FREDS and they do not even warm up. If you can run a standard diode you can run a TO220 with no heatsinking.

Here is a link,

http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=21&M=MUR1620CT

Also a technical Doc attached

Regards

Anthony
 

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I plan on using FREDs myself, I wonder if ther is anyway to convince Kari to accomodate at least one style of FRED on his board?
16A Fred's, thats quite a rectifier for this application. I didn't compare the datasheets, but arent smaller devices, like 1A or 2A devices considered to have better spec's overall? I had something like these in mind:
https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MBR1100-D.PDF
Nothing wrong with the board being able to accomodate TO220's,
though:)
These boards are turning out really well:)

Steen.
 
Here is a nice device as well that I have used extensively, also TO220.

http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=21&M=HFA08TB60

Hello Steen, the devices I am reccomending are actually 8 Amp devices. I only used the 16 AMP TO247AC devices in my BOSOZ power supply because I have so many on hand.

I agree these boards look like one of the best DIY designs I have seen to date.

Regards

Anthony
 
The crappy thing about the MUR1620's is that they infact have 2 diodes in 1 package. The pin layout is A-C-A and this basically means going doubleside.
Is it really necessary to use 8A (or 2 x 8A) diodes? The MUR820 has the same recoverytime (20ns) and is rated 8A, shouldn't that be more than enough? The pin layout of this one is C - nopin - A and would make designing i little easier.

Your thoughts?

/Kari
 
Kari said:
The crappy thing about the MUR1620's is that they infact have 2 diodes in 1 package. The pin layout is A-C-A and this basically means going doubleside.
Is it really necessary to use 8A (or 2 x 8A) diodes? The MUR820 has the same recoverytime (20ns) and is rated 8A, shouldn't that be more than enough? The pin layout of this one is C - nopin - A and would make designing i little easier.

Your thoughts?

/Kari


Oh, I see what you and Steen are on about, sorry I meant the 820 2 pin devices. The same as the HFA08TB is a 2 Pin device.

Any of these would be great.

Regards

Anthony
 
Here's the updated board.
That is a good solution to the Rectifier question. I was a bit concerned that the TO220 pitch, would be trouble for those wanting to use axial lead rectifiers. Very nice:) I think this board is close to perfection.
Regarding the trafo's I had something like this in mind:
(with 2 psu boards), 1 2x60 volt dual sec. trafo for the positive rails on each board, and one 2x15 volt dual sec. trafo for the negative rails. One secondary from each trafo goes to each board.
I guess the 9610 would be hard at work, disposing of the voltage if running 2x60 only. Any thoughts on that?

Steen.
 
I think that running 60V AC on the negative supply is going to fry the 9610. I've bought 1 120VA 2*30V for the positive supply which i will connect in series to get 60V (~80V DC) and 1 50VA 2*12 for the negative which i will connect in paralell to get 12V (~16V DC).

You can still choose a higher voltage for the negative side but you need to change and recalculate R4 and D1 on the preamp board and Z8-Z10 on the pwr board.

/Kari
 
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