Hi Folks,
This is a really dumb one, so please don't flame me. I'm a musician, not an EE.
I'm assembling a BOSOZ and all is going well. I assumed from all that I have read that you want to solder the components to the board with the solder joint on the bottom side of the PC board, which is what I did.
I was reading last months AudioXpress and saw that the Pass phono stage had the solder joints on the silkscreened side of the board. Is there something I don't know or am I just overanalyzing again?
Actually, I'm more curious than worried about it. This is quite an education. Also, could any of you recommend a really good electronics text? Can't wait to fire up the BOSOZ!
Thanks,
Greg Grimes
This is a really dumb one, so please don't flame me. I'm a musician, not an EE.
I'm assembling a BOSOZ and all is going well. I assumed from all that I have read that you want to solder the components to the board with the solder joint on the bottom side of the PC board, which is what I did.
I was reading last months AudioXpress and saw that the Pass phono stage had the solder joints on the silkscreened side of the board. Is there something I don't know or am I just overanalyzing again?
Actually, I'm more curious than worried about it. This is quite an education. Also, could any of you recommend a really good electronics text? Can't wait to fire up the BOSOZ!
Thanks,
Greg Grimes
The soldering should be on the bottom (non-silkscreened) side of the board. I think you're mistaken about the pearl. Look at the pictures posted here: http://www.passdiy.com/projects/pearlono4.htm
Note that fig. 8 shows the bottom just before soldering the leads to the board.
You will see solder on the top-side because it wicks through the plated-through holes.
The most recommended electronics text here is "The Art of Electronics" by Horowitz and Hill. Cambridge University Press. It's not cheap, but it is big, thorough, and very understandable. It can be bought online. Check Cambridge University Press website.
Note that fig. 8 shows the bottom just before soldering the leads to the board.
You will see solder on the top-side because it wicks through the plated-through holes.
The most recommended electronics text here is "The Art of Electronics" by Horowitz and Hill. Cambridge University Press. It's not cheap, but it is big, thorough, and very understandable. It can be bought online. Check Cambridge University Press website.
Or maybe he was talking about this Pass phono stage. In this case the circuit is double sided (or I think so) and soldering is done on both sides.
You can also design one layer board with traces on top and solder it as such. In this case the connections would be shorter by double the thickness of the board.
You can also design one layer board with traces on top and solder it as such. In this case the connections would be shorter by double the thickness of the board.
Attachments
Greg,
The PassDIY pearl phono stage uses double sided boards with plate through hole (PTH), meaning that all of the component holes (and vias) have a metal insert that connects both layers of the board. It is still soldiered on to bottom side, soldier flows to fill the PTH gap, making it appear like it was soldiered from both sides.
picture of bottom of board (from passdiy.com)
picture of top of board (from passdiy.com)
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Brian
The PassDIY pearl phono stage uses double sided boards with plate through hole (PTH), meaning that all of the component holes (and vias) have a metal insert that connects both layers of the board. It is still soldiered on to bottom side, soldier flows to fill the PTH gap, making it appear like it was soldiered from both sides.
picture of bottom of board (from passdiy.com)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
picture of top of board (from passdiy.com)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
--
Brian
Dumb Newbie Questions - part2
My BOSOZ boards are definitely single-sided. Thanks Karen for your kind offer of assistance in my quest. I may have a few questions down the road for you. I think my work so far looks darn good and I only hope it functions as well. X<--crossed fingers.
Finding a quad pot has proven painful, although Alps has one. I think $250 is excessive though. Any other ideas anyone? I really dont want to use two stereo pots. I have thought of trying a couple of CS3310s as I know how to get them working with respect to programming. I don't know how to attach it to the PS though. It needs +/-5V.
My BOSOZ boards are definitely single-sided. Thanks Karen for your kind offer of assistance in my quest. I may have a few questions down the road for you. I think my work so far looks darn good and I only hope it functions as well. X<--crossed fingers.
Finding a quad pot has proven painful, although Alps has one. I think $250 is excessive though. Any other ideas anyone? I really dont want to use two stereo pots. I have thought of trying a couple of CS3310s as I know how to get them working with respect to programming. I don't know how to attach it to the PS though. It needs +/-5V.
What about those? They are cheaper than Alps and way better. You could install them at the input of your preamp. Check my post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3279&highlight=Electroswitch
Attachments
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3279&highlight=Electroswitc
I think for BOSOZ, it asked for either 10K (input) or 5K (output) and as you probably know, I have searched all over the web for a 4-gang pot that's reasonable price and value but so far no luck. Higher K pot are easily obtainable though.
After I build my BOSOZ, I found out that there are a MILLION ways of doing the volume control ... which drives me nuts .... in the sense that how does a newbie know what is a reasonable good value pot for a reasonable price ... not to mentioned that there are stepped attenuators, series & ladder attenuators, 2 gang pot, 4 gang pot, etc, etc ....
I think for BOSOZ, it asked for either 10K (input) or 5K (output) and as you probably know, I have searched all over the web for a 4-gang pot that's reasonable price and value but so far no luck. Higher K pot are easily obtainable though.
After I build my BOSOZ, I found out that there are a MILLION ways of doing the volume control ... which drives me nuts .... in the sense that how does a newbie know what is a reasonable good value pot for a reasonable price ... not to mentioned that there are stepped attenuators, series & ladder attenuators, 2 gang pot, 4 gang pot, etc, etc ....
Nelson recommends not to exceed 25K for input pot (in his article), because of the input capacitance of the mosfets. This might work as a high pass filter on certain occasions. I used as much as 100K ohm pots at the input of BOZ preamp and didn't noticed any deficit in the bass region. But still, I might be wrong.
But still, I might be wrong.- Status
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