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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: denmark
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i have 4 SK 102 heatsinks
the height is 100mm http://www.schuro.de/Daten/Fischer/SK47.pdf is there any amp i could bould.. i havde the aleph p 1.7 preamp and i was thinking of yet an aleph can it be done??? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Slovenia
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at 100mm height - the factor is 0,4K/W - so I would take 2 and 2 heatsinks per each channel - if you want to stay on the very "safe" side - A3 is the choice - you'll have 20°C rise above ambient temp - with A5 that goes to 30°C ... Still very very OK!
The only thing is that the chassis will be very wide and depth - but quite low ... But personnaly - I like that ... |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: denmark
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thats nice.. i would look at the a5...
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Vienna, Austria
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if you mount 2 of these heatsinks in close proximity and thermally coupled (like making an amp side of 430mm length) the thermal resistance is not reduced in a linear manner. this means that you won´t achieve 0.2 K/W in this case, but rather 0.27 K/W - 0.3 K/W because the 2 heatsinks heat each other.
Uli
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: denmark
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thats not good.. right??
what is the best way to do it if i should use thise heatsinks??? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Vienna, Austria
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put the heatsinks on 4 sides, or build an Aleph 3 - you will be on the safe side(25-30° above ambient temperature)
Uli
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: denmark
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what if i make 2 mono blocks??? strange looking amp then i guess..
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Vienna, Austria
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Uli
__________________
![]() 'Jazz is not dead, it just smells funny' F.Zappa |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: denmark
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then i would go to the drawing board...
tanks |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Heatsinks act like chimneys, place two next to eachother and each retains its function. More important with Class A amplifiers is to put the heatsinks well above floorlevel so that cool air may flow to the bottom of the heatsink, warm and rise. If placed parallel to eachother there is the effect of cross influence but with minimal effect. Put a vertical plate to the open flange side of the heatsink and the thermal factor would be reduced to a significantly lower level than 0.20 at 100 mill (creating a true chimney). A heatsink like that is extremely costly in production, therefore only done on special order. Some manufacturers get around that problem by placing the heatsink in a duct, for example take a look at the Vincent SP991. An idea for the true DIY'r, build a heatsink from 1/2 inch thick alloy plates, tapped and bolted together, with thermal grease at the joints. A heatsink shaped to favor, with excellent cooling ability, and a base plate of more favorable thickness for cooling high bias demands than regular alloy heatsinks. The really cheeky use copper plates.
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