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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Well after 1.5 years its finally done.
Its bold and bright to say the least; works great. I'm so tired of working on this...I don't even have the energy to finish the web site yet. Suffice it to say I had absolutely no tools and no clue when I started this 1.5 years ago. Now I've designed PCBs, used relays, done a ton of stuff I don't even recall, hundreds of hours and I don't even want to think how much (one thousand $ or so...) I spent on this..... boy am I tired. Everything you see I made or designed (like PCBs or panels, these were designed by me and made by outside vendors). This was supposed to be a unique design made for the fun of learning, not to save money. This is truely my 1st project in over a decade; but I built a Gainclone during the middle of this project, so that's my first complete project. See Here for the GainClone thread. Front1 (very large picture) Front2 (very large picture) Gears--super zoom Inside This was taken when there was only the DRV134PA board to install on input #3 left to go. All other inputs are done and connect directly to the BOSOZ circuitry (#3 is a SE input with DRV134's to balance them to the BOSOZ circ.) This is why I have another power supply that ends with the unterminated cable you see in the picture. With Not Your Mommy's Gainclone (Gainclone thread is located Here) I tried to make these match even though the chassis' are different. With Pass Aleph 3 (not a diy Aleph) operating with all LEDs turned off (except backlight). The switches on the right side deactivate all non-preamplifier circuitry, all of it...except the 2 LEDs used for backlighting the gears. I found that you absolutely need an indicator to show you when the power is turned on. So this preamp operates as shown with only the 2 LEDs active. No accusing this of having extra noise due to the 20+ LEDs. Panel construction with microscope slide. If anyone wants some of these I've got a box to send you. Back Panel Yes, I still have to drill holes in the cover, right now I use this with the cover off. It of course gets very hot. A more complete description on my new (but not even close to being finished) web site. Attached you see an image of the spring loaded balance structure that is located behind the front panel. Please post or email comments. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Columbia, SC
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I think it's safe to assume that you like the color blue.
The gear-driven volume pots are an interesting solution. I've never seen anyone do that before, but it looks as though it should work out nicely. Grey |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: il
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I love the volume control gears..
you sure filled up the inside of the chassis, glad it worked out.. looks good |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Originally the gears were going to on the inside, hidden. But I had no room, and they looked really nice so I put them on the outside.
Despite all the wires, there is no hum, its really quiet. I have a signal star ground on one side and a power star ground near the xformers. Maybe this helped, not sure. Blue lights? I don't really like blue that much, but green and red would not have gone with the amber. OK, blue is not bad. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Holland, The Hague
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Mr Green,
It might run hot, but I think its very very cool. A piece of art... Enjoy listening.
__________________
Is that all there is? |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Philadelphia
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Quote:
![]() Very nice. Good work. PS: don't forget to try to find a way to get some holes in the bottom too. Hot air won't come out if it can't get in!
__________________
Vince Harris |
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#7 |
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Lightning In A Bottle
diyAudio Member
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Very very nice! Our hobby is really elevating into art. How good are the gears in tracking the volume level with two different pots?
Indirect view of green and red came out to be orange in my case. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Very impressive, it give me hope for how my preamp might turn out and that it might someday be finished.
What method did you use for putting all the very tidy and professional looking lettering on your faceplace and backplate. I've been doing some serious headscratching trying to figure out how I am going to handle that, and my chassis should be arriving next week. Did you get your chassis from Lansing? It look s familiar. Terry |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Genoa (ITALY)
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A similar two-channel pots coupling was employed in old TEAC/TASCAM cassette deck... but open-gears are quite original!
Marcello
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
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Have to concur with the rest of the commentors regarding the open gears. Nice work... definitely worth showing off. I especially like the disengage feature that allows you to balance between the channels.
Bravo!
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