Hi everybody, this is my first post in almost a year!! when I started building my Z v4 but problems put me away of this project for a while, but now I'm almost finishing my amp. The question is how do you put a blue light inside a meter that lit the case very well, I did it but barely can see the light.Please help me to finish this baby!!. Thanks Porfi
for my meters for my aleph2's, im planning on using refractive and reflective properties. i will shine light into plexi-glass sheets, and have a circle cutout in the middle. the outside edges will be covered, but the insides will be exposed. light will only shine from the rough surfaces. if the plexi is smooth and clear, it wont transmit light, but if you score or scuff of the surface, it will glow.
in my "picture", the led is inside the plexi. just drill a hole, or carve out a place for it in the edge. then, cover it completely with tape or something. tape all surfaces that you dont want light coming through (only necessary for scuffed surfaces, smooth ones wont transmit much light).
sony uses this on many of their products. on their plasma with the "floating glass", they have embossed a "sony" logo into the glass. then they shine light at it sideways, only the opaque logo lights up, but the glass is otherwise dark. light just bounces off of surfaces when it hits it.
its worth a shot.
in my "picture", the led is inside the plexi. just drill a hole, or carve out a place for it in the edge. then, cover it completely with tape or something. tape all surfaces that you dont want light coming through (only necessary for scuffed surfaces, smooth ones wont transmit much light).
sony uses this on many of their products. on their plasma with the "floating glass", they have embossed a "sony" logo into the glass. then they shine light at it sideways, only the opaque logo lights up, but the glass is otherwise dark. light just bounces off of surfaces when it hits it.
its worth a shot.
Attachments
not to much you can do with it but drill more holes add more lights
all the way around. if the face plate is thick u could put the light in there pointing at the faceplate. or you could put the face plate on the amp and sink the meter into the amp more with a homemade shim and put the lights in the shim
see pic
kinda like that
all the way around. if the face plate is thick u could put the light in there pointing at the faceplate. or you could put the face plate on the amp and sink the meter into the amp more with a homemade shim and put the lights in the shim
see pic
kinda like that
Attachments
its been busy for me lately. im doing school full time and work full time. AND trying to have a social life. its kinda hard.
there hasnt been much "progress" lately, but a lot of planning has been done. i just got my credit card from sony (they give you money for selling their stuff), and i have enough cash to order all i need to finish up. i am actually ordering stuff right now. i am waiting on a quote from victoria magnetics on the transformers. i could have them done as soon as 2 months.
i shouldnt have taken on this project for a first time real project. its WAY too much learning all at once! but, im getting much better at metal work though.
LED Location?
Is the LED behind the meter markings (i.e. the thing that says VU meter)? If so, can you disassemble the meter and put in a paper (maybe tracing paper or vellum) faceplate printed on an inkjet printer? I made some +24V meters into 0-10V and 0-1A meters using resistors and changing the faceplate.
Maybe that could give you the glow you deserve and not cost more than a few pennies and a couple of hours. For kicks, you could change from 0-X units to something like 0-50%power-Way too Loud! True, that could be a bit tacky for a Pass design, but it could be fun too. If you are interested, I'll post images of my converted current gauges. Nothing special, just a finished product, but they could have been way too easy to work with, compared to your high quality gauges.
If not, don't LED's usually look brighter face-on instead of parallel to the body? Maybe moving it to the back could help. Just a guess.
Good luck with the amp and the blue glow.
How does it compare to your previous amp? Did you enjoy the build article Mr. Pass wrote? I personally enjoy reading the articles, even when I don't build the project. A good, down to Earth writer, I feel.
Sandy.
Is the LED behind the meter markings (i.e. the thing that says VU meter)? If so, can you disassemble the meter and put in a paper (maybe tracing paper or vellum) faceplate printed on an inkjet printer? I made some +24V meters into 0-10V and 0-1A meters using resistors and changing the faceplate.
Maybe that could give you the glow you deserve and not cost more than a few pennies and a couple of hours. For kicks, you could change from 0-X units to something like 0-50%power-Way too Loud! True, that could be a bit tacky for a Pass design, but it could be fun too. If you are interested, I'll post images of my converted current gauges. Nothing special, just a finished product, but they could have been way too easy to work with, compared to your high quality gauges.
If not, don't LED's usually look brighter face-on instead of parallel to the body? Maybe moving it to the back could help. Just a guess.
Good luck with the amp and the blue glow.
How does it compare to your previous amp? Did you enjoy the build article Mr. Pass wrote? I personally enjoy reading the articles, even when I don't build the project. A good, down to Earth writer, I feel.
Sandy.
Hi Sandy, yes the LED is behind meter markings and yes I disassemble the meter trying to put a smaller LED light in front of the meter markings(it's going to be hard, not to much space). Sorry I don't khow what vellum is and please post your images of converter current gauges. Thanks for the inputs.
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