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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Colorado
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Everything was working perfectly until today
when the left channel went down. I have located approximately where the problem is. The voltages are all ok until until right after the 1K resistor (R14), but that resistor measures the proper resistance. Is there a way of testing the FET and Q4 transistor? Thanks for any help I can get. Michael |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
Dig around and measure the voltages around that resistor. It something opened up the voltage at C15 will be a little higher than the other channel. The voltages from one channel to the other may not match exactly. The 2SK389 are not matched and the current draw will set the voltages. What are you measuring at the top and bottom of the ZTX450? Also what is the coltage on top of the R14? George |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Colorado
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Right channel (which is fine):
R14 top: 28.5 volts R14 bottom: 17.7 volts R14 resistance: .99K Q4(ZTX450) measuring point: 13.3 volts Q4 middle: 13.9 volts Q4 top: 17.7 R24 (100K): 99.4K Left channel: R14 top: 28.1 volts (this is what it measured when the left channel was still fine.) R14 bottom: .81 volts R14 resistance: .99K Q4 measuring point: .78 volts Q4 middle: 1.4 volts Q4 top: .81 volts R24: 1.8K Note that R14 measures the proper resistance in both channels, but R24 (100K) is now way off in the left channel. If that's the culprit, why did it suddenly go south? Again, appreciate very much all advice and help!!!! Michael |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
R14 will not hold up long in this condition. It is dropping a little over a half watt. It is most likely a half watt resistor. George |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Colorado
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Just to verify your prediction, I took out
R24 and it was fine. So I will replace 2SK389 and hope this was the culprit. The support from Karen and Pass/DIY is terrific because they will send a replacement. Truly a great outfit. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Colorado
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Replaced the SK389 and the Pearl is up and runnning
again. Karen sent a pair, which was a good thing because the voltages after R14 would have been quite different in the two channels if I had only replaced the defective one. This also goes to show that PASS seems to send reasonably matched SK389 because the first pair also had very close voltages after R14 before one of the FETS shorted. Also, for what it is worth, those FETS seem to contribute to difference in sound. Michael |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
Michael, I learned a little about the 2SK389 trying to match up my two channels. The pair in the Q pack had a 30% difference in idle current. It took three to get the current draw matched to 1 ma. Duals like the 389 are hard to match out of circuit. The socket required is not very common. George |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
I am used to soldering tubed equipment, not transistors. Anyway, I admit that the second pair I received was much closer than the original pair, but I am just going by measured voltages over several days. What I have now is 13.31 and 13.20 volts at Q4 and the voltage at the output caps input (also R14 bottom) is 15.57 and 16.05. Using Ohm's Law at R14, doesn't that get me well within 1mA? Michael |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
In my Pearl one was 18.7 the other something like 14.5. Dummy me swapped the one at 14.5 for another and got 14.5. Then another. Finally swapped the channel the read 18.7 and got both down around 15 volts at the bottom of R14. I could not hear any difference even when one channel was drawing a lot more current than the other. But theoretically the higher current has two advantages. 1. Higher current usually sounds a little better. 2. The higher voltage drop across R14 should lower modulation when swinging a high output. The voltage drop across R14 is what allows the output to be developed. If you ever swap a 389, try the method I used. Clip all seven leads of the chip. Pull the leads out of the through holes. Then use a solder sucker to clean the holes. This method allows a 389 to be swapped in 2 -3 minutes. But it destroys the 389 removed. I do not have the patience to try and remove one without a desoldering station. But my method is easier than that also. George |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
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Quote:
Now I have to order more
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