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All you need is here: http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_f5_turbo.pdf

...and here: F5 Turbo Builders Thread

There are also other threads on the F5T V3 that you can search for.

Boards are here in DIYAudio Store: F-5T – diyAudio Store

Do lots of reading, then read it again and maybe again. It's a lot of reading but you will be rewarded if you put in the effort, I promise. You'll understand why everyone says this afterwards. FYI: it produces some serious heat! (about 500w for a pair of mono blocks :flame::flame::flame:) If you decide to go with the store chassis then you'll need two of the 5U chassis (one per channel). It's not too hard to build and there's lots of info on it to help get you to audio nirvana...and you will, if you put in the effort. :)

The store is out of matched JFETS at the moment but there are other outlets for genuine parts. Maybe others can chime in on that.

TJ


Thank you for your answer, I will consult all documents. I have already bought in anticipation the pairs of Jfets on ebay to the member
punkydawgs recommended by Nelson Pass ... The heat is really not a problem for me, on the other hand I see that the bias is only a 1A seems not huge for the class A 100w. I have already built a lot of amp in class A of the French electronic journal Led which was specialized in audio and the bias was set much higher (between 1.5A and 1.8A) that but against did not put the but on the radiators so much that they were hot ....
 
Thank you for your answer, I will consult all documents. I have already bought in anticipation the pairs of Jfets on ebay to the member
punkydawgs recommended by Nelson Pass ... The heat is really not a problem for me, on the other hand I see that the bias is only a 1A seems not huge for the class A 100w. I have already built a lot of amp in class A of the French electronic journal Led which was specialized in audio and the bias was set much higher (between 1.5A and 1.8A) that but against did not put the but on the radiators so much that they were hot ....


With power supply rails at about +- 45-46v. Bias is set at .7A/pair. 2.8A total bias. That's right around 100watts of class A into 8 ohms. It will change to AB over that, until it runs out of steam.

Don't worry, it will be hot. Mine at the above settings, in a DIY Store 5U case, runs between 48 - 54c (depending on ambient).

BTW the BA3 as a preamp works really good with F5T. :)
 
With power supply rails at about +- 45-46v. Bias is set at .7A/pair. 2.8A total bias. That's right around 100watts of class A into 8 ohms. It will change to AB over that, until it runs out of steam.

Don't worry, it will be hot. Mine at the above settings, in a DIY Store 5U case, runs between 48 - 54c (depending on ambient).

BTW the BA3 as a preamp works really good with F5T. :)



Thank you for your answer, yes now it's clearer for me, I understand better. I order everything to make the V3. Thank you to all those who responded
 
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Hi uchu007,


if your speakers are truely 92db/1W/1m, this would be quite strange, that it isn't loud enough for you. I have measured 90dB speakers, and I never put my M2 to full power in my >>50m² room with high ceilings.
As you wrote, you did a lot of DIY. So, I would suggest to measure the voltage output of your CD player.
If you have a pre amp or head amp, try to connect this.


If you want to go a new amp route, I also would go the mono blocks route, and opt for a two F4. You will need a balanced preamp thou, with some voltage amplification. The BA3, or Salas new DCG3, or a tube preamp like the Impasse. Or a small SET tube amp with fine sound, which the F4 will change into a BIG SET tube amp.


You have many choices, enjoy them and the way to audio nirvana!
Regards
Matthias
 
Hi uchu007,


if your speakers are truely 92db/1W/1m, this would be quite strange, that it isn't loud enough for you. I have measured 90dB speakers, and I never put my M2 to full power in my >>50m² room with high ceilings.
As you wrote, you did a lot of DIY. So, I would suggest to measure the voltage output of your CD player.
If you have a pre amp or head amp, try to connect this.


If you want to go a new amp route, I also would go the mono blocks route, and opt for a two F4. You will need a balanced preamp thou, with some voltage amplification. The BA3, or Salas new DCG3, or a tube preamp like the Impasse. Or a small SET tube amp with fine sound, which the F4 will change into a BIG SET tube amp.


You have many choices, enjoy them and the way to audio nirvana!
Regards
Matthias

Good evening, I have already done several measurement on the oscilloscope until clipping on the amp and it has the area worked well! I have a dozen platinum cd at home including the Kenwood Dp1100sg, the Onkyo DX6800 and a CD90 Audio Analyse that has a class A output has 3vrms. I also have more dac including an ES9038 and a pcm1794 that I love! What is the sound difference between the F5T v3 and the F4 v3? The amp worked very well with my Klipsch RB-81 MKII, with Davis acoustic there is a lack of bass I think the amp and just limit for these speakers.I do not have this problem with the Technics is -a5mk2.I know that the translation with google and good and that you understood well ...
 
Pass amps are great in every way , they just need great speakers , and some source level :D


would you give your race car, some regular gas ? , na ... :rolleyes:


if i give my F6 some standart speakers like the one you mentioned, the result is miles away from my Tannoys 15 , with the same efficiency ...


my 2 cents ...


.
 
Pass amps are great in every way , they just need great speakers , and some source level :D


would you give your race car, some regular gas ? , na ... :rolleyes:


if i give my F6 some standart speakers like the one you mentioned, the result is miles away from my Tannoys 15 , with the same efficiency ...


my 2 cents ...


.

I did not understand everything with the translation, you said that the sources I have are not good for amp Mr pass ???
 
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