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iron core or toroidal for Stasis 3
iron core or toroidal for Stasis 3
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Old 16th November 2017, 02:10 AM   #1
jlhommedieu is offline jlhommedieu  United States
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Default iron core or toroidal for Stasis 3

I found a Stasis 3 which has been modified and Iím considering it as a step up from my Forte 4a.

Someone removed the fuse holders and replaced the transformer with a toroidal.

Is the transformer ok, or should I change it back?

Thanks,
Jim in central Ohio
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Old 16th November 2017, 06:34 AM   #2
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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iron core or toroidal for Stasis 3
if voltage is OK , no need for change
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Old 16th November 2017, 11:14 PM   #3
Tony J is offline Tony J
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I sent you a PM about your Forte 4... Good luck with the Threshold.
Tony
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Old 18th November 2017, 12:34 AM   #4
jlhommedieu is offline jlhommedieu  United States
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ZenMod, the schematic doesn’t specify Rail voltages. What should they be?

I ordered vintage fuse holders to match the original, going for a restoration, at least on the outside. The rail wiring needs to be replaced too. What gauge? Is premium wire needed or just something to withstand 40-50C?
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Old 18th November 2017, 12:36 AM   #5
jlhommedieu is offline jlhommedieu  United States
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Originally Posted by Tony J View Post
I sent you a PM about your Forte 4... Good luck with the Threshold.
Tony
Thanks Tony. Yes, the Forte4a is for sale.
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Old 18th November 2017, 12:48 AM   #6
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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iron core or toroidal for Stasis 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlhommedieu View Post
ZenMod, the schematic doesnít specify Rail voltages. What should they be?

I ordered vintage fuse holders to match the original, going for a restoration, at least on the outside. The rail wiring needs to be replaced too. What gauge? Is premium wire needed or just something to withstand 40-50C?

rail voltage - I'm pretty sure you can measure what's there now and post , so we can think of it
I'm not seeing value on schematics I have , but will try to read some papers
you can try them also , just see Papa related links in my signature


rail wiring - thicker , the better ; sometimes eyelets or pads (drills) are limiting factor , so use what you can squeeze in
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Old 18th November 2017, 02:35 AM   #7
Tony J is offline Tony J
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Thanks Tony. Yes, the Forte4a is for sale.
Sent you a PM.
Thanks Tony
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Old 1st December 2017, 01:31 AM   #8
jlhommedieu is offline jlhommedieu  United States
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The Stasis 3 is working. I got it at a big discount because a P.O. had removed the Rail and Output fuseholders. He had already increased ps capacitance, replace other electrolytics, and installed multi-turn pots. For phase 1, my goal was simply to fix the bad wiring and bad soldering. I restored the 4 missing fuse holders, and replaced the ps wiring with 14 gauge hi temp automotive wire. I twisted up 16 gu for runs to the speaker terms. I put in plenum grade CAT 5 twisted pairs for inputs. And finally I set the heat sink temp to 40-45 degrees C. WOW!!! Such clarity!

I might open it up later and do a phase 2: replace the carbon comp emitter resistors with metal film ones, and put in soft-recovery FRED diodes, and better, brand-name filter caps with bypasses. What do you think about audiophile wire for these very short runs inside the amp?
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Old 1st December 2017, 01:37 AM   #9
jlhommedieu is offline jlhommedieu  United States
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Should I replace all of the 37 year old power transistors for some reason?
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Old 1st December 2017, 06:03 AM   #10
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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iron core or toroidal for Stasis 3
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Originally Posted by jlhommedieu View Post
........ What do you think about audiophile wire for these very short runs inside the amp?
nothing

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlhommedieu View Post
Should I replace all of the 37 year old power transistors for some reason?

transistors are OK , if they aren't broken

if you have a way to measure temp of (each) transistor case vs. heatsink right to transistor , and if temp. diff. is under 10C , you don't even need to check tightness of bolts
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