ZenMod, the schematic doesn’t specify Rail voltages. What should they be?
I ordered vintage fuse holders to match the original, going for a restoration, at least on the outside. The rail wiring needs to be replaced too. What gauge? Is premium wire needed or just something to withstand 40-50C?
I ordered vintage fuse holders to match the original, going for a restoration, at least on the outside. The rail wiring needs to be replaced too. What gauge? Is premium wire needed or just something to withstand 40-50C?
rail voltage - I'm pretty sure you can measure what's there now and post , so we can think of it
I'm not seeing value on schematics I have , but will try to read some papers
you can try them also , just see Papa related links in my signature
rail wiring - thicker , the better ; sometimes eyelets or pads (drills) are limiting factor , so use what you can squeeze in
The Stasis 3 is working. I got it at a big discount because a P.O. had removed the Rail and Output fuseholders. He had already increased ps capacitance, replace other electrolytics, and installed multi-turn pots. For phase 1, my goal was simply to fix the bad wiring and bad soldering. I restored the 4 missing fuse holders, and replaced the ps wiring with 14 gauge hi temp automotive wire. I twisted up 16 gu for runs to the speaker terms. I put in plenum grade CAT 5 twisted pairs for inputs. And finally I set the heat sink temp to 40-45 degrees C. WOW!!! Such clarity!
I might open it up later and do a phase 2: replace the carbon comp emitter resistors with metal film ones, and put in soft-recovery FRED diodes, and better, brand-name filter caps with bypasses. What do you think about audiophile wire for these very short runs inside the amp?
I might open it up later and do a phase 2: replace the carbon comp emitter resistors with metal film ones, and put in soft-recovery FRED diodes, and better, brand-name filter caps with bypasses. What do you think about audiophile wire for these very short runs inside the amp?
nothing
transistors are OK , if they aren't broken
if you have a way to measure temp of (each) transistor case vs. heatsink right to transistor , and if temp. diff. is under 10C , you don't even need to check tightness of bolts
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.