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Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
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Old 30th October 2017, 08:50 AM   #21
MASantos is offline MASantos  Portugal
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how will you plane the base of the console with the steel strips?
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Old 30th October 2017, 10:23 AM   #22
JeffYoung is offline JeffYoung  Ireland
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Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coasttocoast View Post
Thanks for replying.

Yes Im looking at removing the 0.47 Ohm resistors and replacing with a coil for CLC.

So asking if the coil I listed is a good fit and where in the path to insert it? Or other?

Thanks.
If you're going with the coil, just replace the 0R47 resistors with it. It's going to whack the ripple so hard that the capacitance imbalance before/after the coil won't matter.

Whether or not it's the right coil I couldn't tell you. Still coming up that learning curve myself.
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Old 30th October 2017, 04:11 PM   #23
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
Hahaha, been there, I've done the same with six heatsinks, don't remember the line in the middle on my sinks.
Weird thing is that they deliver the heatsinks with that coating on it, making this heatsinks almost impossible to function right.
Do you think it is a kind of anodizing layer or do you think its is a coating?
I ask because a normal anodized heatsink, has a more mat black look, this is a kind of glossy anodized layer.
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Old 30th October 2017, 04:12 PM   #24
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MASantos View Post
how will you plane the base of the console with the steel strips?
The cabinetry of the console will be built around this base in a way that unless you knew how it was built you wouldn’t know it was there, so no need to plane or finish. Although it will get a couple coats of sealer.

Thanks for asking.
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Old 30th October 2017, 04:24 PM   #25
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalterW View Post
Hahaha, been there, I've done the same with six heatsinks, don't remember the line in the middle on my sinks.
Weird thing is that they deliver the heatsinks with that coating on it, making this heatsinks almost impossible to function right.
Do you think it is a kind of anodizing layer or do you think its is a coating?
I ask because a normal anodized heatsink, has a more mat black look, this is a kind of glossy anodized layer.
I’m not a expert on coatings by any means, but I don’t think it’s anodized. Like you say, anodizing has a more matte sheen. This coating is shiny very black and consistent, actually I like the look better than anodized. Should stay clean easier too. But it is pretty hard. Can’t even scratch it very easy. If I had to guess, and I’m guessing, I’d say it’s some kind of ceramic based coating.

Most coatings would ball up and/or leave traces when sanding, when I hit it with the angle grinder sanding disk it turns to fine dust. After seeing that is when I put on the respirator.
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Old 30th October 2017, 09:18 PM   #26
MASantos is offline MASantos  Portugal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalterW View Post
Hahaha, been there, I've done the same with six heatsinks, don't remember the line in the middle on my sinks.
Weird thing is that they deliver the heatsinks with that coating on it, making this heatsinks almost impossible to function right.
Do you think it is a kind of anodizing layer or do you think its is a coating?
I ask because a normal anodized heatsink, has a more mat black look, this is a kind of glossy anodized layer.
I remember reading that crossover coils such as the one you listed were not the best choice for CLC PSU's. I can't remember the thread or the post, but I remember may people recomending the hammond chokes as the go to choice for CLC applications.

Check the 159 and 195 series from hammond:

Hammond Indutores fixos | Mouser Portugal
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Old 31st October 2017, 06:17 PM   #27
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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A coating that is nearly scratchproof is likely to be anodising.
Anodise is the same stuff that they make aluminium oxide cabinet/rubbing down paper from.
Because alox is very hard.
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Old 5th November 2017, 05:50 AM   #28
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Spent some time today over at the cabinet shop.

A week ago I laid up the floor, plenty enough time for all the glue and adhesive to cure. To test the design I put 1 1/2 strips on each end and put 100 lbs of weight in the middle to set how much sag. Right at 1/16. Not bad. In actuality, after the cabinet is built and screwed down it will add strength too.

88E38D5E-07A6-4319-AF49-5CECBCD5682B.jpeg

Then cut up some shop ply with black liner, ran it through the edge bander and assembled the basic form. Starting to take shape. But then somejone must have hit a pole as all,the power went out. So I cleaned up and went home to work on the heat sinks.

B8CE8A2F-ED85-4F47-887D-1FDC0CF8EBAB.jpeg

I had already picked up a 10/32 gap and stainless screws to bolt up the heat sinks. So a bit of time I have the first channel ready to attach to the chassis.

B478DD95-294D-4AEE-A119-3C6BE6FAFEAA.jpeg
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Old 5th November 2017, 06:30 AM   #29
MASantos is offline MASantos  Portugal
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what drivers and preamp will you use?
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Old 5th November 2017, 08:10 AM   #30
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MASantos View Post
what drivers and preamp will you use?
For the preamp Ill be using my McIntosh C2300.

Im building the speaker cabinets generic. In the picture above you can see that the face has a large cutout. This face is kind of a sub baffle. The finish baffle will be made to fit whatever drivers/combos I might want to play with.

The cabinet measures 24 tall x 12 1/4 deep x 14 1/2 wide as you see in the pic. Walls are 3/4 shop ply. There will be bracing and since the cabinet will be built into another cabinet, the walls will ultimately be 1 1/2 thick.

But first up will be a pair of JBL LE8Ts. I purchased them a couple of years ago for another speaker project. I had them completely rebuilt, new cones, surrounds and had the magnets recharged.

51A83E2E-427A-4351-A370-8CB1D79D453D.jpeg

A console is a very big compromise, especially since this one will have a turntable. Im hoping that with the mass of the cabinet, amp, and the bracing/thick walls on the driver, that vibrations will be limited getting to the turntable.

Thanks for asking.
And sitting to each side of this console will be a pair of self powered subs.
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