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Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
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Old 27th October 2017, 11:46 AM   #11
No 4 is offline No 4  United States
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Originally Posted by Coasttocoast View Post
Heat sinks arrived from Singapore.

They are basically 10 long, 6 wide and 3 deep. There will be 5 on each monoblock. I will split one for each channel and have 2 1/2 on the bottom, then a 4 space, then 2 1/2 on top. This will fill up the 24 tall x 16 enclosure door.

5 heat sinks weigh 27 lbs.

Attachment 642431
The quality and finish of those appear to be nice. Did you find those on eBay or somewhere else on the web?
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Old 27th October 2017, 05:18 PM   #12
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Originally Posted by No 4 View Post
The quality and finish of those appear to be nice. Did you find those on eBay or somewhere else on the web?
I have also had a couple private requests for info on these heatsinks.

I purchased them on eBay, item #263262235520. The same seller has them in natural aluminum also, for a little less money.

Ebay shows the sale from China, but they were shipped to me via DHL leaving out of Singapore.

The weight, finish, and overall feel is perfect. The seller answers questions almost immediately, shipped like the next day and arrived a week earlier than quoted.

Sound like an advertisement? I guess I’m jaded from other bad experiences on eBay and overjoyed I actually received something better and quicker than I had hoped for.

Of course the job of the heatsink is not to look good but to transfer heat. So that review can’t happen until after I’m done. But I think WalterW here on diyaudio also used them on his Sony chip amp. That’s where I got the idea from. And WalterW didn’t report any heat transfer issues.
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Old 27th October 2017, 06:02 PM   #13
WalterW is online now WalterW  Netherlands
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Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coasttocoast View Post
Of course the job of the heatsink is not to look good but to transfer heat. So that review cant happen until after Im done. But I think WalterW here on diyaudio also used them on his Sony chip amp ( chip amp??? ..... aaaarghhhh ) Thats where I got the idea from. And WalterW didnt report any heat transfer issues.
yes there are serious issues, see this post: VFET-X (or my 1/3 40th Anniversary Sony VFET Clone)

You have to sand them a lot, then they are good to go.
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Old 28th October 2017, 06:34 AM   #14
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Thanks WalterW for speaking up. I kind of assumed that smoothing heatsinks before bolting devices was a standard practice.

The backs of mine are pretty flat, but I will be blocking them and removing the coating on the backside.

Stripped my first monoblock tonight. Came apart pretty fast. Man do I have a lot of drilling and tapping to do. Totally forgot how much work went into this first pair.

94690DF3-5410-485A-8F4C-2ACC1215C898.jpeg

Ill get one up and running first, and use the first one as reference. Been a good couple years so I cant remember everything.
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Old 29th October 2017, 02:01 AM   #15
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Why is HiFi so heavy?😥

The weight of the amp cases, heatsinks, transformers, turntable, and all the other equipment the console has to carry is a pretty good load. Since it is going to be 94 long, and Im planning for only 4 legs, a really strong base is needed.

Today I put together the base of the cabinet. It is 2 thick, 92 long and 21 5/8 wide. To aid in building, assembly, and finishing I built a 10 high platform and sitting on a moving dolly on each end.

The base is built out of 24 rips of 3/4 shop grade maple plywood, 2 rips of 1 baltic birch plywood, 8 strips of 1/4 steel plate, 2 tubes of Sika adhesive, and about a 1/2 gallon of wood glue. Layered up and clamped.

The steel plate weight 12 lbs each, so 96 lbs.

After a few days Ill do a load test. Hope is that it will hold 200 lbs in the middle without deflecting any.

D4C145F7-9671-42BC-B2A6-28BA347FA06E.jpeg
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Old 29th October 2017, 02:11 AM   #16
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Tomorrow Ill start bolting in the amp parts into the chassis.

This is roughly the plan. The chassis will be in the back of the console behind the speaker. The enclosure will stand upright, 24 tall and 15 wide. The hinges will get moved to the side.

Connections and a cooling fan will be in the side facing the center of the console. Power at the bottom, input/output in the center, fan at the top.

Heatsinks and the boards on the door, including the FE board.

9C76CFF0-BFAD-4B51-B45A-AF72047A539E.jpeg

Layout will be optimized to good flow and short runs of wire.
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Old 29th October 2017, 07:16 PM   #17
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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As I’m organizing the layout I’m wondering if I should make any upgrades? It’s been a couple years since building. After a few hours of reading it looks like one upgrade could be the power supply by going CLC.

As I’m barely a novice, I understand that cleaning up the power is a big part of the power supplies duties. In the old days coils were very popular as caps were more expensive. If I understand correctly.

In my amps now I have (per mono block);

Toroidy 1500VA transformer 38v,

4ea Rifa 82,000uF 63vdc caps

8ea Mundorf M-Lytic 15,000uF 63vdc caps

Rail voltage 51vdc

Has 2 sets of 7ea 0.47 resistors before the last pairs of 15000uF caps. (Store boards)

I have room for a pair of coils, but unsure how to calculate for my application.

My first guess, to show I’m not being lazy, is this Jantzen Air Core 000-0153. 3.5mH +/-3%, AWG14, 0.552Ohm

Any comments and suggestions welcome.
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Last edited by Coasttocoast; 29th October 2017 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 30th October 2017, 12:32 AM   #18
JeffYoung is offline JeffYoung  Ireland
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Aloha F5 v3 part 2, console build
If you're pulling a bit over 5A per rail, all that capacitance is giving you something on the order of 90mV of ripple. However, the capacitance is a bit unbalanced, which isn't ideal.

Moving all the Mundorfs to after the resistors would knock it down to ~ 65mV. I would think that's pretty damn good.

Adding the Jantzen gets it down to about 4mV (at the expense of some voltage on the rails). That's probably overkill.

However, if you're pulling a lot more current, then it might be worth going to CLC.

Note: there's an issue with how much current you pull through the coil, but I can't remember the details.
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Old 30th October 2017, 07:15 AM   #19
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Originally Posted by JeffYoung View Post
If you're pulling a bit over 5A per rail, all that capacitance is giving you something on the order of 90mV of ripple. However, the capacitance is a bit unbalanced, which isn't ideal.

Moving all the Mundorfs to after the resistors would knock it down to ~ 65mV. I would think that's pretty damn good.

Adding the Jantzen gets it down to about 4mV (at the expense of some voltage on the rails). That's probably overkill.

However, if you're pulling a lot more current, then it might be worth going to CLC.

Note: there's an issue with how much current you pull through the coil, but I can't remember the details.
Thanks for replying.

Yes I’m looking at removing the 0.47 Ohm resistors and replacing with a coil for CLC.

So asking if the coil I listed is a good fit and where in the path to insert it? Or other?

Thanks.
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Old 30th October 2017, 07:37 AM   #20
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Spent today working on the heatsinks.

The coating is pretty hard. Here is a pic after a few passes with a standard palm sander with 80 grit paper. The circular marks and the line down the middle are not very deep and were there before the coating was applied.

95C7F4CA-3664-4D9C-9422-26F2AD8D81DB.jpeg

Similar condition on all 10 I purchased. So I hit each one with my angle grinder with a 120 grit flapper type sanding disk to knock off the coating. You need to have some experience with sanding like this or you could end up with a mess. I took it down to where there were almost no defects, then used the palm sander with 80 grit. (FYI, I used a respirator as I dont know what the coating is). It took me about 3 hours to clean up the 10 heatsinks, including cutting 2 in half.

AFCBEE14-2FFB-4216-9C0E-EBC2D1CF6285.jpeg

Then cut up the 3/8 x 2 aluminum bar stock Im using to hold the heatsinks together, to transfer the heat load between the pieces and hold the boards and devices. Ill be removing the extension wires I added in the last build and solder the devices to the board directly, like your supposed to. I drilled all the bar to heatsink mounting holes (80) and called it a day.

Here is a pic that kind of shows the physical layout. And yes, Im going to be mounting the FE board to the chassis door in the 2 1/2 gap between the top and bottom heatsinks. The board will face outside the enclosure and be exposed. Since this will be the back of the console and not exposed to the public it wont be a safety issue and I will be able to tweak without having to open the door.

A95B7C91-E712-4AF4-B024-F09B592B2D69.jpeg
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