Bridge Rectifier vs. Schottky Diodes for F4 - diyAudio
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Old 28th January 2017, 08:54 PM   #1
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Default Bridge Rectifier vs. Schottky Diodes for F4

This is the last item I need to add to my parts order for building an F4, so I need to make a decision between using the universal PSU with Schottky diodes or a bridge rectifier block.

I built my F5 using the diyAudio Universal PSU with Schottky Diodes.

I'm leaning towards the rectifier block as it saves space in a 4U chassis, and the easy of installation.

I just wonder if I'm giving anything up?
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Old 28th January 2017, 11:21 PM   #2
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It's debatable. Use whatever makes you happy.
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Old 30th January 2017, 10:26 PM   #3
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Unfortunately life is generally not about making me happy...in fact it's usually about making someone else happy. But your right, my hobby should make me happy.

I'm going with the bridge rectifier block. It will make me happy during installation.
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Old 30th January 2017, 10:31 PM   #4
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Difference is about $40 vs $4. .....but i went with the Schottkys for my F4
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Old 31st January 2017, 04:20 PM   #5
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The standard "best" we have at Pass Labs is the fast/soft recovery types,
but snubbing is the best thing whatever you use.
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Old 7th February 2017, 11:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson Pass View Post
but snubbing is the best thing whatever you use.
I've heard that before. But calculating the values seems to be over my head. I have read two articles...struggling with the math.

I guess I rely too much on the online calculators where you plug in some values and get an answer.

I'm using the diyAudio store power supply board and there is a spot for input snubbing.
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Old 8th February 2017, 12:01 AM   #7
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You can build a bellringer test jig on your protoboard which will let you visually dial in the optimum value of the snubber. Search the forums for "bellringer" and/or "Quasimodo" -- you will find that the thread NAME is No-Math Snubbers which sounds well-suited to your preferences.

The article I like best is the one in Linear Audio magazine. Its takeaway was
48 different diodes were tested, including Schottkys, HexFreds, SoftRecovery, Silicon Carbide, you name it.

The very best performing diode, without a snubber, was not as good as the very worst performing diode plus a snubber
BTW the worst performing diode was a 35 amp, 1000 volt, silicon bridge rectifier. Part number GBPC3510. sales link
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Old 10th February 2017, 02:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinHeem View Post
Unfortunately life is generally not about making me happy...in fact it's usually about making someone else happy. But your right, my hobby should make me happy.

I'm going with the bridge rectifier block. It will make me happy during installation.
My first Pass, the F5 build, I used Peter Daniels rectifier boards and nice separate diodes, 16 in all. Lots of solder points. Insulator pads under each one. For the next one, I used blocks. Have used blocks on every Pass power amp since. So much easier, less space used, and so on. Close enough to make me happy!

I will check out these snubber articles however!

Russellc
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Last edited by Russellc; 10th February 2017 at 02:49 AM.
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Old 10th February 2017, 04:40 PM   #9
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Hmmm as above... built my F6 and PSU as per guides etc.
Been working beyond expectations for ~1 year now.
Now I read about snubbers and their 'goodness' :-).
My PSU's feature diode block bridges rather than discrete Fast & Slow diodes
Should I retrofit the rascals to my DIY shoppe pcb in the required places or is this just gilding the lily?

Somewhere in memory.. I read that Only 1 fast /slow diode is actually necessary in a bridge for benefit... Accurate?
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Old 10th February 2017, 05:15 PM   #10
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I bet there's a good chance you could find out the answer, by running LTSPICE simulations with different numbers of excellent/poor diodes.
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