For the record: all my transistors on the WLS came from the same reels. I bought hundreds of the big ones, enough of the small ones.
I need to listen more wrt imaging. In a mountain cottage for Christmas. But from the little I have listened, it seems comparable wrt imaging. But remember, I have el cheapo speakers right now, plus the F2J colours the stage with it’s positive phase H2.
But yes, very worthwhile. I did this in between Christmas preps with three kids, and in three days perhaps an hour a day. And it is allready up. So very happy with that, for prototestibg anyways.
Project files for my B1 R2 board are now up here - along with a (marginally) better picture of the boards
Merry X-mas to everyone
Thank you!
Hello -- new here. I've been reading everything I can find on B1 buffer. Thank you for the shared wisdom.
I've decided to build a B1R2 buffer (2019 version). I'm going to do point to point. I have a few newbie questions:
QUESTION1: the store sells 8-11ma and 6-8ma SK170/SJ74s. I am assuming the 8-11ma would be a better bet to go with for general use?
QUESTION2: I'm curious if anyone has noticed improved sound from having any kind of special resistors (metal/carbon/etc) or qualioty of trimpots or even types of wires used in construction of the B1R2? The buffer will be feeding a very sensitive amp. My amp is sensitive to anything in the system-- from wire type (silver/copper solid/braided) to IC construction (helix vs non) etc. Changing power supply cables for even the source equipment is noticeable. THe amp is a high gain (35db) with wide bandwidth (10-200Khz). (I also have another older amp that's not as particular).
QUESTION3: any recommended perf boards that will allow pt to pt soldering?
QUESTION4: trying to figure out a power supply is driving me crazy. I believe I'll start with finding a smpc 24V DC like was suggested. Many people then seem to go for doing a full -12V/+12V supply. I don't know anything about power supplies... but when i order from the store I'm thinking it might be good to order most of the stuff I need. Does anyone have any experiences noticing differences in sound when going from a smpc to a more elaborate (and expensive) power supply?
Thanks so much!!! Without this collective wisdom I wouldn't want to even start the DIY route-- but I do like building things.
By the way... I wish everyone pleasant holiday times
I've decided to build a B1R2 buffer (2019 version). I'm going to do point to point. I have a few newbie questions:
QUESTION1: the store sells 8-11ma and 6-8ma SK170/SJ74s. I am assuming the 8-11ma would be a better bet to go with for general use?
QUESTION2: I'm curious if anyone has noticed improved sound from having any kind of special resistors (metal/carbon/etc) or qualioty of trimpots or even types of wires used in construction of the B1R2? The buffer will be feeding a very sensitive amp. My amp is sensitive to anything in the system-- from wire type (silver/copper solid/braided) to IC construction (helix vs non) etc. Changing power supply cables for even the source equipment is noticeable. THe amp is a high gain (35db) with wide bandwidth (10-200Khz). (I also have another older amp that's not as particular).
QUESTION3: any recommended perf boards that will allow pt to pt soldering?
QUESTION4: trying to figure out a power supply is driving me crazy. I believe I'll start with finding a smpc 24V DC like was suggested. Many people then seem to go for doing a full -12V/+12V supply. I don't know anything about power supplies... but when i order from the store I'm thinking it might be good to order most of the stuff I need. Does anyone have any experiences noticing differences in sound when going from a smpc to a more elaborate (and expensive) power supply?
Thanks so much!!! Without this collective wisdom I wouldn't want to even start the DIY route-- but I do like building things.
By the way... I wish everyone pleasant holiday times
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Thanks very much for responding. I'm wondering why you might go with the lower mA versions? Is there less noise? Better sound with 25ohm trim pot than 50ohm in your thinking? I'm just trying to understand why your preference might lean toward the lower mA devices?
Is that because you feel it would provide the cleanest sound? I'm just trying to understand why you might lean that way. Thanks so much!!!
Q
I prefer less degeneration.
Technically it would be better, but I haven’t had the time to actually do an a/b test.
It has the potential to sound better.
That doesn’t mean 6-8 is better, but for the purpose of achieving less degeneration while incorporating a trimpot, the lower idss part achieves the goal a little better.
Alternative you could try getting rid of the trimpot and putting a cap at the output, then you would have zero degeneration.
You would need to build it both ways and see which sounds best.
A cap adds some additional expense though.
For a first project just stick with a trimpot.
I prefer less degeneration.
Technically it would be better, but I haven’t had the time to actually do an a/b test.
It has the potential to sound better.
That doesn’t mean 6-8 is better, but for the purpose of achieving less degeneration while incorporating a trimpot, the lower idss part achieves the goal a little better.
Alternative you could try getting rid of the trimpot and putting a cap at the output, then you would have zero degeneration.
You would need to build it both ways and see which sounds best.
A cap adds some additional expense though.
For a first project just stick with a trimpot.
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Battery is both simpler and better.
You’re only drawing around 7ma per channel so a battery doesn’t need to be huge.
In this application it makes sense.
You can always add a power supply later but to beat a battery setup it will certainly add more complexity.
Add separate RCC per channel after battery
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With regards to batteries, I was initially thinking of lithium 18650 cells but if you decided to go the simplest route with those rectangular 9V batteries, then go dual mono to increase your run time. You could do 2 cells or 3 cells (27V, +/-13.5V is totally fine.)
These look cool.
They are now making rechargeable 9V Lithium Ion Batteries in the good old rectangular package.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Rechargea...hargeable+9v+batteries&qid=1671960531&sr=8-12
These have much higher storage capacity than NiMH 9V so going dual mono is not really necessary if you want to keep the cost down.
They are now making rechargeable 9V Lithium Ion Batteries in the good old rectangular package.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Rechargea...hargeable+9v+batteries&qid=1671960531&sr=8-12
These have much higher storage capacity than NiMH 9V so going dual mono is not really necessary if you want to keep the cost down.
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Thanks for considering this. THANK YOU SO MUCH. First off-- do people refer to each other by their login-name? Do you wish me to refer to you as "2 pico dumbs"? You've been very helpful! Sorry for so many questions....but it really helps me to understand
Part1: I'm a little confused about the battery idea. Seems like the schematic I have 2019 version would like approx 24 volts (even 27v) across the power supply filter (to provide the +12v -12v dual with virtual ground). I don't see getting around that filter if I don't provide a "negative" and "positive" power. Are you assuming something else? In other words, wouldn't the power supply filter still be there even if you used the batteries? You mention using an RCC even after batteries-- are you thinking of a different circuit than the filter circuit on the schematic?
Part 2: If I still need a filter circuit... seems like it would probably just be easier and cheaper for me to get a good Mean Well smpc that provides 24V with 2% ripple. (I see Nelson Pass recommended them for another project on the store--but I could go with a much smaller wattage Mean Well adapter). Wouldn't the filter clean up the power? Or are there still artifacts with the smpc? I just noticed there's an inexpensive inline filter kit in the store...I suppose that would help?
Part 3: It would be nice to not have all this extra stuff hanging around.. (adapters or batteries w/charging)... so I assume that's why people tend to include their own power supplies in the cases with the B1R2? That way I assume you could use an IEC and typical power cords? (I've read people talking about LM317 regulators, LT1083/85 regulators, Salas Bib power supplies.. I noticed "the super regulator" board and a general power supply board also in the store. But know nothing of any of those right now.) Any comments on any of these approaches?
Two final questions: 1) how much power does this B1R2 typically require under load?
2) do most people duplicate the filter circuit for each channel? It looks like you could use just one filter board for both channels but maybe having one for each channel would reduce noise or bad interactions between channels?
I'm okay with doing a good job on this if it helps me get a great sounding buffer. I'm okay with it taking a bit longer if I have something that will be less hassle long term-- in other words... i'm not into super complexity but it doesn't have to be super super simple.
Thanks again.
Part1: I'm a little confused about the battery idea. Seems like the schematic I have 2019 version would like approx 24 volts (even 27v) across the power supply filter (to provide the +12v -12v dual with virtual ground). I don't see getting around that filter if I don't provide a "negative" and "positive" power. Are you assuming something else? In other words, wouldn't the power supply filter still be there even if you used the batteries? You mention using an RCC even after batteries-- are you thinking of a different circuit than the filter circuit on the schematic?
Part 2: If I still need a filter circuit... seems like it would probably just be easier and cheaper for me to get a good Mean Well smpc that provides 24V with 2% ripple. (I see Nelson Pass recommended them for another project on the store--but I could go with a much smaller wattage Mean Well adapter). Wouldn't the filter clean up the power? Or are there still artifacts with the smpc? I just noticed there's an inexpensive inline filter kit in the store...I suppose that would help?
Part 3: It would be nice to not have all this extra stuff hanging around.. (adapters or batteries w/charging)... so I assume that's why people tend to include their own power supplies in the cases with the B1R2? That way I assume you could use an IEC and typical power cords? (I've read people talking about LM317 regulators, LT1083/85 regulators, Salas Bib power supplies.. I noticed "the super regulator" board and a general power supply board also in the store. But know nothing of any of those right now.) Any comments on any of these approaches?
Two final questions: 1) how much power does this B1R2 typically require under load?
2) do most people duplicate the filter circuit for each channel? It looks like you could use just one filter board for both channels but maybe having one for each channel would reduce noise or bad interactions between channels?
I'm okay with doing a good job on this if it helps me get a great sounding buffer. I'm okay with it taking a bit longer if I have something that will be less hassle long term-- in other words... i'm not into super complexity but it doesn't have to be super super simple.
Thanks again.