DIY FirstWatt F4 and McIntosh C48?

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For My BA-2 front end, I am struggling a bit with the resistor /capacitor brands and values:
4 10K R201, R202
4 47,5K R203, R204
2 1K R205
2 221R R206
2 100R R207
4 750R, 3wR208, R209
4 47,5R R210, R211
2 150R R215
2 5K P201
4 20pF C201, C202
2 10uF, 35v C203
4 1000uF, 35vC205, C206, C208

I would appreciate if anyone could point me to a good brand.
Would Audio Note 0.5 watt resistors be overkill?
Would a 47K resistor be alright to use in place of the 47,5 k one specified for R203 and R204?

Does anyone have a photo of a fully stuffed BA-2 board?

Otherwise I have almost all the "big" parts in the house. I still need to buy the last components to stuff the BA-2 board, buy internal wires, M3 screws, nut, washers, spacers and so on.

Thanks,
Peter
 
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For R208 and 209 3w resistors you want Panasonic part number ERG-3SJ751. Also available at Mouser.

I'm second guessing myself on this recommendation. The BA-2 article says "The point between R208 and R209 is “bootstrapped” from the output of the amplifier through C208". You may want a metal film resistor there. In that case something like this:

http://http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/PR03000207500JAC00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%2f4r7Iw6CIkyG7zviBZagDQ%3d

Hopefully someone else will chime in!
 
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I have problems finding these parts still:

4 x 20pF C201, C202
2 x 5K P201

Kevin: You have helped me a lot, although I have used a different series Vishay/Dale resistors (CMF55). Those were recommended to me by a friend in Denmark. But the Vishay 3w 750R PR03000207500JAC00 looks right.
Elna Electrolytic Capacitors (10uF 35v + 1000uF 35v). Right too?


Still on the to get-list:
Board mounting standoffs, w/ bolts and washers
Mounting bolts for fets w/washers
Speaker Terminals and RCA Jacks
IEC power connector/Power switch (Schurter type)
Wires: audio and power

+ heatsinks for some of these:

SJ109V+2SK170+IRF610 (I have bought these).

 
Just ordered scews, wire, rca back panel connectors online at Tube Town (Germay)

Possible Schurter IEC inlet with on/offs witch:
(1) 6765 - IEC Appliance Inlet C14 or C18 with Line Switch 2 pole and Fuseholder 1- or 2-pole
(2) 6762 - IEC Appliance Inlet C14 or C18 with Line Switch 1- or 2-pole and Fuseholder 1-pole

Are these alright? Elna Electrolytic Capacitors (10uF 35v + 1000uF 35v).

Still searching for:
4 x 20pF C201, C202
2 x 5K P201
Bolts and washers
Speaker Terminals

Apart from that, I am almost good to go with:

- soldering components on the BA-2 board (heatsinks anywhere on the SJ109V+2SK170+IRF610 ?)
- checking for mistakes on the completed boards
- making up a wiring scheme for the "liberated" F4 with soft start module
- finding out how to use my C48 "xlr" outlets with the F4
- assembly
- checking everything works + adjusting bias etc.
 
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Still searching for:
4 x 20pF C201, C202
2 x 5K P201

5k pot
64Y-5,0K: Präzisionspoti. 25 Gänge, stehend, 5,0 K-Ohm bei reichelt elektronik

Other manufacturers shoud be available at electronic stores in Germany or Denmark. Many stores in Holland sell these.

The caps are a bit more difficult to find. Farnell has 20pF mica caps, which I assume should be fine (ask confirmation from someone with more experience, like ZenMod). Problem is that they are USA stock, and extra costs are involved.
Silver Mica Capacitors | Farnell element14
They also have the 5k trimpot, so you could order those there as well.
T93YB502KT20 - VISHAY SFERNICE - TRIMMER, 22 TURN 5K | Farnell element14

Good luck!
 
Are these alright? Elna Electrolytic Capacitors (10uF 35v + 1000uF 35v).

I used these in my BA3-FE, but that was just because I had them in my drawer:
MKP1839610164 - VISHAY ROEDERSTEIN - Film Capacitor, MKP1839 Series, 10 µF, ± 5%, PP (Polypropylene), 160 V | Farnell element14

Any 10uF MKP (polyporpylene) should work.
Examples:
- Mundorf MUNDORF MCAP250, 10uF, 5% Audio Capacitor
- Clarity Cap 10.0uF ClarityCap PX

No idea if the Elna Silmic II would work here. I think someone also used them in a similar position in the BA3-FE and they sounded great. I suggest you check that thread. I think he bypassed them with a small MPK or MKC.

The 1000uF 35V Elna Silmic II should be fine. I used the same in my BA3-FE. They were slightly too big, so they lean sideways a bit. No big deal. You might find that the 25V is a better fit for the board, but I have not checked.

I am not sure how much sinking you will need, but unless you really bias it high a small heat sink should be fine for the IRF610. I used small heatsinks and standard M3 screws and nuts.

I have not used heatsinks for the JFets in my builds and do not think you need them here.

Good luck.
 
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I have all parts in the house or on order except:
- the two "bridges" placed between the PSU and the transformer in the build guide
- the terminal block (and how to wire it for 230v)

I am waiting for the screws and wires to arrive from Germany + an IEC power inlet with power switch to arrive from the UK.

Once everything is here, I will fit the back panel connectors and line everything up for photos.
 
I have all parts in the house or on order except:
- the two "bridges" placed between the PSU and the transformer in the build guide
- the terminal block (and how to wire it for 230v)

Simple bridge rectifier: GBPC3504 or similar. See attached datasheet. I have read that discrete diodes (such as MURxxx) are better but have no experience with those as I have used GBPC bridges in the past and they work fine. I think Nelson uses similar GBPC bridges in the production FirstWatt amps.

Terminal block: I have used "barrier blocks" from Apexjr in the past, see Whats New at ApexJr about halfway down the page.

Attached a diagram of how I did my F4 and F5 psu's. My Amplimo transformer has 2 x 115V primaries. Wiring and colors will depend on your transformer. Attached is the datasheet of the transformer I used. You should be able to work it out from there.

Good luck!
 

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