After some more effort, my M2 now resides in a more stable and portable chassis. The chassis is almost entirely recycled and left-over parts. The sinks was a flea market find for $6, the top plate is one of my veneer test panels that I made when I built my FHXL speakers, and the front and back panels are scraps from the garage. The only new purchases for the chassis were the aluminum brackets at the rear to provide room to mount the mosfets appropriately on the sink and a handful of screws. The sinks appear to be a good size for this amp, they only see a 20c rise after more than an hour.
The chassis is 12" wide, 12" deep, and 8" tall. The bottom of the sinks are elevated about an inch above the tabletop by the front and rear panels. The bottom is open and the hole in the back panel provides air circulation through the chassis. The input jacks are temporarily on pigtails while I wait for proper ones to arrive - the current ones are too small in diameter (cheap crap from Chinese seller on e-bay). Not even the super-tight Monster cables can hold these jacks tightly. This is my second amp to use my modular power supply. F4 was my first and Aleph-J will be my next.
Now it's time to spend some time listening
Nice!
Russellc
In reference to post 2677.
Your "correct" ps schematic is how i did my build.I have a 500va antek non shielded toroid toward the back of the chassis (close to the edcors which are not shielded).The rectifier bridges (2 cheap square fwb) next and finally the diy ps board (36kkuf/0.1R/36kuf) close to the front of the chassis.Measured ripple is 40mv rms both rails. I have no hum.I've used this ps for an aleph j,F6,F7 ish and all configurations are dead quiet.I don't understand why all the people have hum?
Your "correct" ps schematic is how i did my build.I have a 500va antek non shielded toroid toward the back of the chassis (close to the edcors which are not shielded).The rectifier bridges (2 cheap square fwb) next and finally the diy ps board (36kkuf/0.1R/36kuf) close to the front of the chassis.Measured ripple is 40mv rms both rails. I have no hum.I've used this ps for an aleph j,F6,F7 ish and all configurations are dead quiet.I don't understand why all the people have hum?
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I firmly do believe you must have speakers appropriate to the M2 and you if you want to hear all the amp has to offer. On some Cambridge Soundworks things, it's pretty yuk, but on the Klipsch's - best I've had.
But there is a problem if you succeed with the synergy....
It might be the last amp you want to build, possibly ending your DIY amp career.
I will keep going - not because I have to.
But there is a problem if you succeed with the synergy....
It might be the last amp you want to build, possibly ending your DIY amp career.
I will keep going - not because I have to.
M2 coming to diyAudio Store
Yesterday, I transferred the PCB manufacturing Gerber files of the diyAudio FirstWatt M2x**, to the big chief boss of the diyAudio store. Both 6L6 and I hope that customers will be able to purchase PCBs from the store, very soon.
Yesterday, I transferred the PCB manufacturing Gerber files of the diyAudio FirstWatt M2x**, to the big chief boss of the diyAudio store. Both 6L6 and I hope that customers will be able to purchase PCBs from the store, very soon.
**M2x is the M2 amplifier, exactly as Nelson Pass designed it, plus the option to field-swap different Input Stage circuits. At this moment there are five IPS options: the original NP Input Stage circuit using Toshiba JFETs, and four new IPS designs. Some of them use BJTs. Some of them use JFET-input IC opamps. One of them is a single ended class-A circuit using an American made JFET. Plenty of shiny toys to experiment with.
Hi, Im finished assembling M2C (tea-bag pcb) amps and have spent too much on diverse pcbs an components lately so Im running out of DIY pocket money for now
I need a 4U/400deep cabinet for my M2 and double mono (2 x 300VA) supply with big longlife caps and was thinking of saving some $ on cabs. What Is the experience on Modushop steel vs aluminium with regard to noise/hum?
Drilling holes in steel or alu is not an issue.
I need a 4U/400deep cabinet for my M2 and double mono (2 x 300VA) supply with big longlife caps and was thinking of saving some $ on cabs. What Is the experience on Modushop steel vs aluminium with regard to noise/hum?
Drilling holes in steel or alu is not an issue.
Hi, Im finished assembling M2C (tea-bag pcb) amps and have spent too much on diverse pcbs an components lately so Im running out of DIY pocket money for now
I need a 4U/400deep cabinet for my M2 and double mono (2 x 300VA) supply with big longlife caps and was thinking of saving some $ on cabs. What Is the experience on Modushop steel vs aluminium with regard to noise/hum?
Drilling holes in steel or alu is not an issue.
Aluminum Class A amplifier chassis amp Enclosure /case/Box 410*440*150mm | eBay
Hi, Im finished assembling M2C (tea-bag pcb) amps and have spent too much on diverse pcbs an components lately so Im running out of DIY pocket money for now
I need a 4U/400deep cabinet for my M2 and double mono (2 x 300VA) supply with big longlife caps and was thinking of saving some $ on cabs. What Is the experience on Modushop steel vs aluminium with regard to noise/hum?
Drilling holes in steel or alu is not an issue.
Just built a M2x in a steel 4U chassis, no issues w hum
Thanks Oreo382, this cabinett is nice and ideal for an integrated FW Fx, although as ZM poined out, once you add 100€ for freight and 25% on top of the total for VAT its regrettably no longer a bargain.
Its not the cooling that is the issue, its space for 2 donuts and 8 ø65mm caps
I have testfitted to a 300deep bottom plate, this can fit but it is quite cramped and there will not be a lot of air left in a U4/300.
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Meanwhile the M2 pcbs rest patiently while I suppress the urgeto hear them by dissassembling my lovely F6.
That's a hard choice to make...However, the M2 should not disappoint!
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