I have a well assembled DIY F5, and it suits my highly efficient over 104db horn system very well
Just recently I was thinking of upgrading it to an F6 by upgrading just the F6 PCBs and the pair of the Jensen JT-123-FLPCH signal transformers
Reason for the thought to do this soft upgrade to F6 is I want more precise bass control "not deeper bass" just accurate bass in the multi layer variety
Am I being silly ?
Anyone had similar thoughts or have actually made such an upgrade
Would also like opinions on the idea to ponder various views be they good, bad or whatever
And while the answers are coming how would you implement the upgrade to the F6 from the F5 ( apart from the obvious )
Cheers
Just recently I was thinking of upgrading it to an F6 by upgrading just the F6 PCBs and the pair of the Jensen JT-123-FLPCH signal transformers
Reason for the thought to do this soft upgrade to F6 is I want more precise bass control "not deeper bass" just accurate bass in the multi layer variety
Am I being silly ?
Anyone had similar thoughts or have actually made such an upgrade
Would also like opinions on the idea to ponder various views be they good, bad or whatever
And while the answers are coming how would you implement the upgrade to the F6 from the F5 ( apart from the obvious )
Cheers
Yep no problem
Heavily modified 3 way Klipsch La Scalas
Drivers Consisting of
Crites CW1526C 15 inch cast woofers.
Great Plains Audio 399 A mid compression drivers, fitted to -
Elliptrac 400 timber mid range horns with adaptors to suit 1”, 1.5” & 2” horn drivers
JBL 2404H compression tweeter driver and “Baby Cheeks” horn
Bass extension bin fitted to lower section
Add to that custom made crossovers with db adjustment
Cheers
FR
Attachments
The PCB of the F6 is much longer, so with 300mm long heatsinks you have to drill and tap new M3 holes for the output MOSFETs.
Dissipation is the same, so the heatsinks will be OK, if you have more then 3U.
Dissipation is the same, so the heatsinks will be OK, if you have more then 3U.
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Thanks for the reply
At this early stage the measurements have been made and the newer longer PCBs will fit nicely
And new holes and placement have been accounted for
FR
I'm not sure you'll get more accurate bass going to F6 but the F6 certainly is a fine amplifier.
I'd be tempted to experiment with an open baffle bass set up. Not easy to get good bass extension but you definitely get the most accurate bass I've heard.
I also find multiple bass drivers tend to reproduce the dynamics of bass with far more accuracy than a single driver.
I'd be tempted to experiment with an open baffle bass set up. Not easy to get good bass extension but you definitely get the most accurate bass I've heard.
I also find multiple bass drivers tend to reproduce the dynamics of bass with far more accuracy than a single driver.
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The damping factor of the F5 is .1 and the damping factor of the F6 is .5 .
I would be tempted to add a little series resistance say ~ 3 ohms to the F5
to simulate the damping you would get with the F6. It shure would be a cheap
experiment .
I would be tempted to add a little series resistance say ~ 3 ohms to the F5
to simulate the damping you would get with the F6. It shure would be a cheap
experiment .
I have built a couple of open baffle speakers using single drivers for my son in law but we found that they needed help in the bass department, so we implemented an active sub to help them out
With regards to my speakers
The bass bin extension gives me plenty of bass that hovers about 30 htz and it has plenty of of bass punch if it's in the recording
The way the crossover is made and the cross over points of the different drivers make them dynamic enough for me ( and the lucky few that have heard them )
I don't particularly like dooof doooof bass just accurate and realistic bass, and this soeaker build has everything to like in spades
No. The damping factor is .1 This would mean it had an output impedience of ~.8 ohms. And the F6 would have an output impedience of ~ 4 ohms.
I have modified LaScala's also using an Altec 511 and selenium 220 with baby cheeks for a tweeter. and I replaced my Aleph30 boards with F6 without any problems in a standard 4U case. I never built a F5 because I was afraid the F5 might be too bright with my horns. I was using a BA3 SE before building the F6 and to me the F6 shows more detail and has more soundstage than the other 2. All 3 are great sounding amps but for now I am using the F6. I believe 6L6 has built both so maybe he will comment but if you contact him he will respond.
Are you suggesting a resistor in series with the speaker lead to
simulate a different load to the amplifier.
that would change how the amp and speaker react to each other?
FR
My apologys for my previous post I had that totally wrong . I guess no coffee combined with a senior moment. I was miss reading output impenitence as damping factor.
I am told that I am a coffee aficionado by my friends
If you were closer by several thousand miles I would offer a pick me up coffee🙂
FR
Thanks for your input mate
My DIY F5 was tested against a genuine First Watt J2 and an X150
The X 150 pipped both at the post in the bass accuracy department
And more specifically in the bass extension area
That's why my mind has wondered towards the F6 upgrade due to the impressions and now your comments I have been reading
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I think the way forward for you would be to biamp.
The F6 is a very nice amp, but if your desire is to improve bass detail and accuracy over the f5 then either biamping with maybe an F5 turbo or the new SIT amp running the bass driver and F6 driving mid and tweeter is what will get you some improvement,
I don't believe F6 will be any better than F5 regarding bass detail
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