I don't mind some drilling/tapping a few holes as I have a nice drill press and do quite a few Rochester Quadrajet upgrades/modifications with it.
I bought 2 of these 8 inch for my next project and they look very good and have been used by other members successfully in Firstwatt projects. You still have to make a case with angle aluminum and wood or plate but it does save $. This is a Diy forum. Some members have made awesome looking cases starting just with heatsinks.
10.080" - HeatsinkUSA
David
10.080" - HeatsinkUSA
David
Small but without doubt an Impolitic question
Viewing the Assorted Signatures and the surprising number of Amps typically contained therein.
Simple observation is that Many are Seeing Building Amps..adnauseam as their actual Hobby.
As opposed to DIY'ing their Hardware to enable /better utilise their Software (Music)
Is there Any semblance of truth in this simple observation?
Just asking?
I've heard it said before "audiophiles listen to equipment". There is nothing wrong for being an equipment collector as a hobby. Personally I like building equipment for a hobby and electronics over the years has always been a hobby for me. There is no better thrill than when you hook up your latest diy project and hear it for the first time knowing you built it yourself.
David
I have a set of those USA sinks. My F-5 is made from M&M sinks, angle aluminum and panels of 1/8 inch 6061. Way cheaper if you consider your time not worth much.
Russellc
The length is fixed, 10.08 inches or whatever, its a matter of how tall you want it, the ones I bought are 8 inches tall. They were working on a 12 incher but were having trouble, dont know if they ever figured it out or not.
Russellc
The website asks what length you want when ordering with a drop down menu.
Anyway, I selected 8" and the price comes out to be $52 and change plus shipping for only one heatsink.
So that's over $100 just for the sinks...ouch.
The Asian cases are beginning to look better all the time. Especially the ones with all the holes already cut into the rear panel for the IEC connector, RCAs, etc..
Anyway, I selected 8" and the price comes out to be $52 and change plus shipping for only one heatsink.
So that's over $100 just for the sinks...ouch.
The Asian cases are beginning to look better all the time. Especially the ones with all the holes already cut into the rear panel for the IEC connector, RCAs, etc..
I've done the Asian case thing, Aspect of them are really very nice.
But every one I've seen with heatsinks big enough for our projects ALL had extremely rough flat sides of the heatsink extrusions. (Where the mosfet mount) They must be lapped down by hand. That takes a bunch of time to do right.
But every one I've seen with heatsinks big enough for our projects ALL had extremely rough flat sides of the heatsink extrusions. (Where the mosfet mount) They must be lapped down by hand. That takes a bunch of time to do right.
I've been banging on about conrads in Australia for years, IMO cant beat them anywhere:
Conrad Heatsinks
I've used MF30-151.5 in all my Firstwatt builds and they seem pretty good, I think the coefficient is something like 0.26. They price at $69 USD for 2 by the look of things....
The following link shows what I've been doing with them:
Vitalstates- Amplifiers
sorry if I'm repeating myself but I do think they're good value.
Ed
Well, I guess its which way you have it laying. Being an extrusion, the fins are parallel to the length of the extrusion. With fins going up and down, the "length" of the sink horizontally is 10.08 inches. That is maximum depth. Now it can be as tall as you want, but height doesnt buy you as much as "depth" does cooling wise. In other words, their "length" measurement is really "height" with the fins going up and down. The front to back length, is fixed at 10.08"
Russellc
I remember group buys on those years ago, good sinks. At the time I was getting M&M same size and if you bought 4 at the time (2 amps worth) they were 50 bucks each. At a pair, they were 100 bucks each...So I always got 2 sets of 2...it made no sense at all, the guy just told me it was the cost of setting up for the cut, after that it didnt matter, which made even less sense.
The last time I tried to order, price had risen SUBSTANTIALLY! Thus, the Heatsink USA. As you price this stuff, they are pretty cheap really.
As a Lawyer, I guess I value my time differently than some. All the drilling and tapping for hours, sanding polishing, etc is grueling, for me any way. I had never worked metal before.
With the F-5 Turbo group buy, I bought a Deluxe 5U. When I finally gave up wanting a Turbo F-5 and went with BA-3 Amp instead I used that box. The pain of the cost had been absorbed by that point, and the ease of assembly made me say never again! Well never say never, but I have Aleph J, and as soon as Mouser order gets here this F-6 ready except for the cases, and I am still waiting! I have thought about converting a dual mono F-5 into F-6. all that would take is drilling the universal pattern onto my sinks, but I wait.
Russellc
Which Chassis is better for F-6, b/w 5U and 4U?
I have seen it said for F-6 that the 4U is plenty. I saw the same said of the Aleph J, but most said it was really hot...is this the same case as with F-6? I mean there really isnt THAT large of a price difference between the two chassis. Both are pretty expensive. I see the first Watt site shows Aleph J consuming 200 watts, while F-6 only 180...much difference?
I also saw where someone (6L6?) pointed out that the 5U, with two separate sinks per side required placing the boards just so in order for the mosfets to be spaced correctly on the two sinks. Does this still fit the pre drilled pattern, or does something need to be drilled and tapped for F-6? I think the store has that universal pattern, guess I could hold my F-6 boards up to it
Is full bias really hot with 4U? I assume mosfet placement is easier on it?
6L6, I know you've seen both chassis, what say you?
Russellc
I have seen it said for F-6 that the 4U is plenty. I saw the same said of the Aleph J, but most said it was really hot...is this the same case as with F-6? I mean there really isnt THAT large of a price difference between the two chassis. Both are pretty expensive. I see the first Watt site shows Aleph J consuming 200 watts, while F-6 only 180...much difference?
I also saw where someone (6L6?) pointed out that the 5U, with two separate sinks per side required placing the boards just so in order for the mosfets to be spaced correctly on the two sinks. Does this still fit the pre drilled pattern, or does something need to be drilled and tapped for F-6? I think the store has that universal pattern, guess I could hold my F-6 boards up to it
Is full bias really hot with 4U? I assume mosfet placement is easier on it?
6L6, I know you've seen both chassis, what say you?
Russellc
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4U is totally fine for an F6. It has half the Mosfet of a Aleph J. A F6 built in a 5U would be severe overkill.
The 4U is pretty hot for an Aleph J, but with sufficient ventilation, it's OK.
The 5U seems and feels significantly bigger than the 4U. Much deeper, and it's just tall enough to not fit is some places. This, however, shouldn't be a problem as you really need 4-5 inches open above the amp for good ventilation.
All the diyAudio PCB will fit the hole pattern on either chassis.
The 4U is pretty hot for an Aleph J, but with sufficient ventilation, it's OK.
The 5U seems and feels significantly bigger than the 4U. Much deeper, and it's just tall enough to not fit is some places. This, however, shouldn't be a problem as you really need 4-5 inches open above the amp for good ventilation.
All the diyAudio PCB will fit the hole pattern on either chassis.
Hi Ed,
Those are very nice looking heatsinks and $69 is a good price, but their site doesn't say much about shipping charges to the U.S..
Thanks...