F3 Clone Build - building own heatsinks - diyAudio
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Old 2nd July 2014, 02:33 AM   #1
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Default F3 Clone Build - building own heatsinks

Hi all,

I've a bit of time off at the moment, so what better to do than finish the F3 clone I've wanted to do for ages? I'll be using some suds pcb's and pretty much what I have on hand for components

I'm a bit of a cheapskate, so for this build I'll be making my own heatsinks. Using a slab of 150x300mm 5mm think plate, and a bunch of offcuts from some solar panel rails as 'fins' I hope to end up with something that's good for the job.

I anticipate some 'challenges' one of which is that I believe that the ally rails I'll be using have a coating on them. I can obviously sand that off, but part of me is wondering about anodizing all the parts as well... I happen to have some fancy anodizing dyes I bought ages ago (and never used) so I could make this quite a garish colorscheme

Anyway, here's a quick photo of the boards and ally.
Edit: I'll reduce the resolution of future photos...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg heatsink materiels.jpg (704.9 KB, 428 views)

Last edited by aspringv; 2nd July 2014 at 02:34 AM. Reason: Uploading fail
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Old 2nd July 2014, 03:14 AM   #2
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Default Psu

Next consideration is the power supply.

CRC (or even a cheapass version of CLC if I go the single power supply route)

I've a couple of 300VA-500VA torroids around with 30 - 35V secondaries, but with primaries at 220 - 240V. I've heaps of 50V caps, a few 63V caps and a couple of scavenged coils/inductors so parts for either approach is no problem.

The big blue thing is a brake coil from somewhere. Should I use it as the L in a CLC...

After dithering a while, I reckon I'll do a CRC PSU, and try and make sure the C after the R is getting less than 50V and pile the capacitance on. Failing that I'll extract a couple of the 63V Elna's from another project.

It'll all be point to point wired as I don't have any pcb's suitable here.

Edit - just remembered there's a 35 secondary, 235 primary 500VA torroid in an unfinished project. I reckon that'll be a great transfo for this project.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg psu components.jpg (599.2 KB, 396 views)

Last edited by aspringv; 2nd July 2014 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 2nd July 2014, 06:24 AM   #3
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Default Cutting and drilling parts

Got the table saw out, put the best blade i had on it and started cutting ally up for fins.

Got them all marked out and drilled as well, and hopefully I've not made an **** out of my measurements...

I had an assistant to help - I just wish she had opposable thumbs...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cutting setup.jpg (605.8 KB, 342 views)
File Type: jpg cut fins.jpg (624.9 KB, 345 views)
File Type: jpg drilled plate and fins.jpg (592.1 KB, 339 views)
File Type: jpg work assistant.jpg (938.7 KB, 186 views)

Last edited by aspringv; 2nd July 2014 at 06:41 AM. Reason: photo
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Old 2nd July 2014, 06:41 AM   #4
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The only problem with the thin aluminium box section is heat transfer.

There's not a lot of meat to transfer the heat away from the backing plate.

Now, that back plate doesn't look like aluminium to me. If it's mild steel it wont work too well as a heatsink.
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Old 2nd July 2014, 07:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspringv View Post
Got the table saw out, put the best blade i had on it and started cutting ally up for fins.

Got them all marked out and drilled as well, and hopefully I've not made an **** out of my measurements...

I had an assistant to help - I just wish she had opposable thumbs...


What blade did you use in the table saw?
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Old 2nd July 2014, 07:07 AM   #6
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Hi KatieandDad,

Yup, I hear you alright. I wasn't too sure about it either, but at the end of the day if the heatsink isn't up to it, I can use it elsewhere.

The 5mm stuff is definitely ally, it has some kind of coat on it as well it seems, so I'll need to clean that off as well. I'm just looking at how hard anodizing is likely to be, and if I can source the chemicals required... If I do that then a caustic soda bath will do it!
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Old 2nd July 2014, 07:10 AM   #7
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Default saw blade

Ni Nashbap,
Please see below. I've previously used a 40T blade but got a cheap 60T for todays effort. The actual ally ones are 80T. I take my time and it came out OK. Not perfect sadly, so if I commit to doing a great job I'll be filing away for a while...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cutting close up.jpg (476.2 KB, 153 views)
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Old 2nd July 2014, 07:20 AM   #8
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As you've drilled it all already give it a go.

I've got an Aleph F4 and that needs SERIOUS heatsinks.
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File Type: jpg DSIR0195.JPG (163.7 KB, 235 views)
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Old 2nd July 2014, 07:21 AM   #9
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Hmm, turns out I can buy the chemicals I'd need for lots of anodising for about $70. I'll have to think about that one a bit, as I'll need to build a anodising power supply as well - and it looks like it'd need to push out about 6-8 amp. Again, I have the parts to build that too, but it's starting to get a bit big on me here...

http://astro.neutral.org/anodise5.shtml is what I'm looking at with regards to anodising information.

Last edited by aspringv; 2nd July 2014 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 2nd July 2014, 07:27 AM   #10
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KatieandDad - yup that's a lot of heatsinking . Whats the F4 dissipation and whats the dimensions there on yours? I ask as I've a couple of f4 boards squirrelled away as well...

Last edited by aspringv; 2nd July 2014 at 07:27 AM. Reason: Capitals are good!
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