Thanks, if you or anyone can point me to a voltage follower design that would work I'd appreciate it.
Class A Follower Buffer?
I am not super familiar with the o2 but I believe you can set it to unity gain and make it essentially a buffer. And then use the BA-3 for gain.
NwAvGuy: O2 Details
I am not super familiar with the o2 but I believe you can set it to unity gain and make it essentially a buffer. And then use the BA-3 for gain.
NwAvGuy: O2 Details
@ McQuade
This years Burning AMP Nelson specifically devise (ACP+) a preamp and headphone amplifier that was strong enough to push the Grados 32 OHM Impedance they were intended as the benchmark. Of course it is CLASS A it’s from Nelson.
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_acp.pdf
This years Burning AMP Nelson specifically devise (ACP+) a preamp and headphone amplifier that was strong enough to push the Grados 32 OHM Impedance they were intended as the benchmark. Of course it is CLASS A it’s from Nelson.
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_acp.pdf
Last edited:
The guide DIY IRF610 MOSFET Class-A Headphone Amplifier Project calls for a 1uf mylar input cap. I'm having trouble finding mylars on Mouser - what's a good cap to put here?
Anything 1uf and above the psi voltage will work. Polypropylene is a better choice than mylar. Best mouser has is probably WIMA MKP10. The electrolytic cap on output is even more important. I would use something like Silmic or Nichicon KZ bypassed with a poly cap.
Are you planning on using the psu from the BA-3 for power? You realize the above project is single rail and not bipolar like the BA-3?
Lastly...I hate to say this but you are probably better off starting from scratch with a headphone amp design than try to integrate the BA-3. Integrating the BA-3 can be done but it will have too much gain...and I am guessing it will be outdone by some of the other dedicated headphone amps available here. Maybe even the o2.
Are you planning on using the psu from the BA-3 for power? You realize the above project is single rail and not bipolar like the BA-3?
Lastly...I hate to say this but you are probably better off starting from scratch with a headphone amp design than try to integrate the BA-3. Integrating the BA-3 can be done but it will have too much gain...and I am guessing it will be outdone by some of the other dedicated headphone amps available here. Maybe even the o2.
One stereo source in, switching between two outputs, either the BA-3 volume control or jacks on the back which my O2 will be connected to.
The front of the BA-3 is dominated with 3 large knobs (volume, source selector, and stereo-mono) and adding another smaller knob wouldn't look great.
I would try to set the o2 to unity gain and use it as a buffer with the BA-3 in front of it...it cost you practically nothing. You may still prefer the o2, however. But this would solve your switching needs.
Headphones/headphone amps are very personal. In my opinion much more variation exists than exist in the speaker/amp world and paring the amp to the headphone is more important. A Grado sound SO much different than say an AKG open back. Quality is much more subjective. So it's much harder to recommend components or headphones.
I don't worry about switching because I listen to vinyl on speakers and digital on headphones.
Thanks Hikari, why put the BA-3 in the mix when I can just connect sources directly to the O2?
I'm proposing using the BA-3's source selector, going from that to either the BA-3 or the O2, to avoid swapping cables.
Sources 1,2,3 ===> BA-3 source selector ===>BA-3 or O2
Unless there is an advantage to using the BA-3 for gain and the O2 as a buffer.
That would work fine.
If you are diligent about powering down the o2 when using the Ba-3 and vice versa you could just add another set of RCA's to the BA-3 as a "bypass" after the source switch to the o2.
The advantage to using the BA-3 for gain is it is a class A/no feedback gain stage vs a class A/B, heavy feedback integrated chip in the o2. Choice is up to you. I would just carry on with the o2 and if headphone listening was extremely important to me decide on a dedicated headphone build in the future.
Irrespective of whether or not polypropylene is better (it is), mylar is just another name for polyester (or, more specifically, polyester terephthalate, otherwise known as PET).
Cheers,
Jeff.
I can finally contribute some expertise
Now you're in my field.Mylar is a VERY specific type of PET film. Polyethylene Terephthalate. All Mylar is PET, but not all PET is Mylar.
Edited to add - Polypropylene is another matter altogether.