Hi. I had some free time and give them a try which I forgot them in storehouse 🙂
I also tried to make an amp it sounded a little but only when I made my hand in series to gate and phone headphone output . It sounds a lot when I put my finger on gate but does not play when I connect it to phone directly.
I tried with 12v and 24v power supplies by trimmer of them. Sorry for many photos
I also tried to make an amp it sounded a little but only when I made my hand in series to gate and phone headphone output . It sounds a lot when I put my finger on gate but does not play when I connect it to phone directly.
I tried with 12v and 24v power supplies by trimmer of them. Sorry for many photos
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Here's something using the Semisouth SiC JFET. Something similar similar could be done with the United Silicon Carbide/Quorvo SiC JFET. The amp emulates a classic two-stage Class A tube amp with pentode inputs and outputs with both "Schade" and global feedback.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sic-puppy-se-amp-using-semisouth-085-jfet.192450/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sic-puppy-se-amp-using-semisouth-085-jfet.192450/
Thank you for your answer. What about low voltage one? 24-30v one will be good because I have meanwell 150w
For the low voltage option, you will have to search elsewhere - I never tired that one. I'm sure there's a thread in the Pass Labs forum if you search.
see original Zen amp , FW site, articles page
can't be simpler
principle is there, adjust values for your needs
can't be simpler
principle is there, adjust values for your needs
Since Electra-Print is no more, I think you can get a suitable transformer for the low voltage option from Edcor.
Edcor makes a 150/8 ohm transformer in their lineup of largest single ended transformers. This calculates out to a turns ratio of 4.3:1. Max current rating is 400mA. If you work out the numbers, that means you can get 1.73 A peak secondary current running at the highest rated primary current. This translates out to 11.76 W RMS max output power with the output device of your choice. Assuming you can arbitrarily bottom out the driver, that means you'll need about a 60V bus (it was 58V, but I rounded up a bit) to to get that much RMS power into your speaker. A little bit higher bus voltage will keep things farther away from chipping if you crank it up, but also more dissipation in the output device.