Best solder and wire for Pass diy amplifiers ?

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No matter what wire or solder you use, you won't get a good joint if your components have oxidation. I keep a small piece of fine steel wool on the bench and clean the leads of my components right before installing and soldering them. For large joints, I also put on a little liquid flux. Cleanliness is key to a good solder joint.
 
The solder survey again?

I use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder. It makes a nice shiny bead. I guess it sounds good. 20 years ago I was using Wonder Solder. I love the way it flowed. Their new solder isn't the same.

Cardas is noted Quad Eutetic.High price but 100 gr roll don't break the bank if participate to sound quality.What choice for internal audio signal wire i don't have many information?
Thanks for share
 
Photos of internal wiring in my class A 20 watt amplifier
made by Mr Jean Hiraga from L'Audiophile
 

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This evening i opened my amplifier.Its huge passive psu i can transpose in F4 , F5 or AlephJ look like a good example.
Maybe not for audio part ???Wire is very ordinary one why connected high quality just after on rca's modulation input
For all audio wiring in Pass diy i search constant quality in all signal path...way to preserve delicate musical signal;)
 
Grommets....!

Re: the pics in post #65.....

I realize from your posting comments you did not build this particular amp, but for the ones you do build--PLEASE consider the use of rubber grommets, wherever you have wires passing through a metal plate (chassis, apron, panel, etc, etc). This is certainly a VERY good practice for high current power supply and mains circuits...!

The a low probability you'd chaff a lead's insulation badly, but rubber grommets are cheap insurance if you did.......

Just a good engineering/fabricating practice....... trust me.....!!
 
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This evening i opened my amplifier.Its huge passive psu i can transpose in F4 , F5 or AlephJ look like a good example.
Maybe not for audio part ???Wire is very ordinary one why connected high quality just after on rca's modulation input
For all audio wiring in Pass diy i search constant quality in all signal path...way to preserve delicate musical signal;)

For your PSU and for leads from the PSU to your amp boards, use the largest (smallest gauge #) that can be threaded into any of the PCB pad holes. I typically try to use #16 stranded copper, or #14 or #12 if the boards can accept that size. (In fact, I've been know to redrill commercial PCB holes to open up the pads to accept the larger wire--and to run additional silver solder on the PSU copper traces, to help reduce resistance via increased cross-sectional area.)
 
Re: the pics in post #65.....

I realize from your posting comments you did not build this particular amp, but for the ones you do build--PLEASE consider the use of rubber grommets, wherever you have wires passing through a metal plate (chassis, apron, panel, etc, etc). This is certainly a VERY good practice for high current power supply and mains circuits...!

The a low probability you'd chaff a lead's insulation badly, but rubber grommets are cheap insurance if you did.......

Just a good engineering/fabricating practice....... trust me.....!!

This amplifier be build by old 1985 Paris team from
revue L'Audiophile concept of Mr Jean Hiraga.
Mr Nelson Pass have made Némesis one interpretation from this man with new Sit transistors recently
www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_sit_nemesis.pdf
Smart perceived Can Am Man many thanks!!!
Safety in all construction , avoid source of danger i write this in near future i protect this wires with rubber grommets:key:
 
You may find Jan Didden's Transformer output amp interesting. He shows it on his site. Nemesis rebuild
Yes Brianco thank for sharing "Linear Audio"fascinating and things to learn and build.
Do you now this huge library?Is in french but with lots schematics class A,phonos,wide range speakers and more...maybe you liked?

"L'Audiophile"
index

index
I stay now focalised on dear Papa amplifiers realisation wait for Anteks and ready to solder:D
 
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