Best solder and wire for Pass diy amplifiers ? - Page 7 - diyAudio
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Old 25th September 2013, 12:32 AM   #61
labjr is offline labjr  United States
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I haven't tried the new Mexican Weller's but my old one has been going for 20 years.
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Old 25th September 2013, 12:34 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk856er View Post
Current discussion in the equipment section....

BK
Sorry if was little off topic and thanks for attention.
This tread be something to avoid errors for beginners like me.
I am in process to build F4, F5 and AlephJ can you help as make choice in wire material, shielding,diameters,solder on pcb's from DiyAudio all.
Have nice day
Best regards
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Old 25th September 2013, 01:03 AM   #63
Decker is offline Decker  United States
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No matter what wire or solder you use, you won't get a good joint if your components have oxidation. I keep a small piece of fine steel wool on the bench and clean the leads of my components right before installing and soldering them. For large joints, I also put on a little liquid flux. Cleanliness is key to a good solder joint.
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Old 25th September 2013, 01:08 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labjr View Post
The solder survey again?

I use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder. It makes a nice shiny bead. I guess it sounds good. 20 years ago I was using Wonder Solder. I love the way it flowed. Their new solder isn't the same.
Cardas is noted Quad Eutetic.High price but 100 gr roll don't break the bank if participate to sound quality.What choice for internal audio signal wire i don't have many information?
Thanks for share
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Old 25th September 2013, 01:39 AM   #65
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Photos of internal wiring in my class A 20 watt amplifier
made by Mr Jean Hiraga from L'Audiophile
Attached Images
File Type: jpg classe A JH 20 watt.jpg (276.8 KB, 245 views)
File Type: jpg classe A 20 watt Hiraga.jpg (315.7 KB, 246 views)
File Type: jpg classe A 20 watt Hiraga inside.jpg (315.7 KB, 241 views)
File Type: jpg 20 watt Jean Hiraga.jpg (311.1 KB, 236 views)
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Old 25th September 2013, 02:08 AM   #66
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This evening i opened my amplifier.Its huge passive psu i can transpose in F4 , F5 or AlephJ look like a good example.
Maybe not for audio part ???Wire is very ordinary one why connected high quality just after on rca's modulation input
For all audio wiring in Pass diy i search constant quality in all signal path...way to preserve delicate musical signal
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Old 25th September 2013, 02:20 AM   #67
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Default Grommets....!

Re: the pics in post #65.....

I realize from your posting comments you did not build this particular amp, but for the ones you do build--PLEASE consider the use of rubber grommets, wherever you have wires passing through a metal plate (chassis, apron, panel, etc, etc). This is certainly a VERY good practice for high current power supply and mains circuits...!

The a low probability you'd chaff a lead's insulation badly, but rubber grommets are cheap insurance if you did.......

Just a good engineering/fabricating practice....... trust me.....!!

Last edited by CanAm Man; 25th September 2013 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 25th September 2013, 02:30 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundhappy View Post
This evening i opened my amplifier.Its huge passive psu i can transpose in F4 , F5 or AlephJ look like a good example.
Maybe not for audio part ???Wire is very ordinary one why connected high quality just after on rca's modulation input
For all audio wiring in Pass diy i search constant quality in all signal path...way to preserve delicate musical signal
For your PSU and for leads from the PSU to your amp boards, use the largest (smallest gauge #) that can be threaded into any of the PCB pad holes. I typically try to use #16 stranded copper, or #14 or #12 if the boards can accept that size. (In fact, I've been know to redrill commercial PCB holes to open up the pads to accept the larger wire--and to run additional silver solder on the PSU copper traces, to help reduce resistance via increased cross-sectional area.)
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Old 25th September 2013, 03:09 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAm Man View Post
Re: the pics in post #65.....

I realize from your posting comments you did not build this particular amp, but for the ones you do build--PLEASE consider the use of rubber grommets, wherever you have wires passing through a metal plate (chassis, apron, panel, etc, etc). This is certainly a VERY good practice for high current power supply and mains circuits...!

The a low probability you'd chaff a lead's insulation badly, but rubber grommets are cheap insurance if you did.......

Just a good engineering/fabricating practice....... trust me.....!!
This amplifier be build by old 1985 Paris team from
revue L'Audiophile concept of Mr Jean Hiraga.
Mr Nelson Pass have made Némesis one interpretation from this man with new Sit transistors recently
www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_sit_nemesis.pdf
Smart perceived Can Am Man many thanks!!!
Safety in all construction , avoid source of danger i write this in near future i protect this wires with rubber grommets
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Old 25th September 2013, 03:27 AM   #70
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Some more pictures 20 watt Class A by Jean Hiraga
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Hiraga pcb.jpg (274.1 KB, 226 views)
File Type: jpg Hiraga amplifier.jpg (187.7 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg Hiraga 20 watt.jpg (259.1 KB, 109 views)
File Type: jpg Hiraga amp 20 watt.jpg (402.6 KB, 108 views)
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