Looking at the pictures thread, it looks like there is a wide variety of amount spent on DIY Pass amps. If it's not to cheeky, I would like to hear from you folks to see how much you spent.
Ill start out with what I've spent on the parts for the dual F5T builds (one V2 and one V3) that I'm in the middle of. I have all the parts for both and I'm half way through the actual build of the V2.
F5T V2 ~$375
F5T V3 ~$525
Ill start out with what I've spent on the parts for the dual F5T builds (one V2 and one V3) that I'm in the middle of. I have all the parts for both and I'm half way through the actual build of the V2.
F5T V2 ~$375
F5T V3 ~$525
You are doing great! My store chassis for V2 cost more than 375.00!
I did much better on F-5, where I built the chassis with M&M sinks...they are considerably more robust than what the stores chassis sets include....This chassis is borderline under spec for Turbo versions, whether stereo V-2 or V-3 mono. It can be done and has, but this project needs more to make me feel good about it. If I had to do it over, I would have built My own. Good luck with your build, I am shelving mine and going back to work finishing Pearl 2 and another 1/2 built F-5 (regular, not turbo) I need to finish. Hopefully the smoke will clear enough for me to build confidently with what I have for Turbo V-2, otherwise its getting either built into a 2 pair F-5 cascode Using the F-5c boards which I have on hand, or Aleph J that I'm in on through 6L6.
Russellc
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Russellc - I'm cheap and I don't think either of my amps will be mistaken for store bought. The amps are going in a home theater so I'm shooting for looking (and sounding) good in the dark!
The basic chassis are wood with some metal trim parts and panels. Most of the electronic pieces are new from Mouser. I'm using eBay used heat sinks and surplus NOS transformers and PS caps.
The basic chassis are wood with some metal trim parts and panels. Most of the electronic pieces are new from Mouser. I'm using eBay used heat sinks and surplus NOS transformers and PS caps.
I built the F5 using Conrad heatsinks, Antek 400 VA transformer, added PSU stages, heatsink temp LED alarms, speaker protection and clipping (Class A going into AB) LED monitors. Cost for all that was about $600 (US).
I did my own chassis fabrication, to include the heavy aluminum base and rear apron. The front panel work was done by Front Panel Express, and I did the acrylic top plate, and African hardwood sides. I got my two Weston VU meters for about $60 (US) some 30+ years ago; these meters are extremely rare pieces and if you can find them today, they go for about $400 each.
My other hobby is designing and fabricating race cars. I've NEVER attempted to add up the cost for any single car I've built--I doubt if I can stand the stress and agnst of that answer.....!
I did my own chassis fabrication, to include the heavy aluminum base and rear apron. The front panel work was done by Front Panel Express, and I did the acrylic top plate, and African hardwood sides. I got my two Weston VU meters for about $60 (US) some 30+ years ago; these meters are extremely rare pieces and if you can find them today, they go for about $400 each.
My other hobby is designing and fabricating race cars. I've NEVER attempted to add up the cost for any single car I've built--I doubt if I can stand the stress and agnst of that answer.....!
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CanAm,
Do your end plates impact the thermal efficiency of the sinks of your F5? Doing mental gymnastics I can make arguments to myself that they would both increase the airflow by making a more efficient chimney and block some cold air access. Curious what impact if any other than looking good?
Do your end plates impact the thermal efficiency of the sinks of your F5? Doing mental gymnastics I can make arguments to myself that they would both increase the airflow by making a more efficient chimney and block some cold air access. Curious what impact if any other than looking good?
Bob, I have two low-flow, low-noise muffin fans on the rear apron of my amp. They effectively "pressurize" the internal plenum of the amp (flowing air around the transformer, electrolytics, power resistors, etc). From there, I have machined channels at the base of the Conrad heatsinks to allow the chassis air to exit, and flow upwards between the heatsink fins and the wooden side panels. The resultant forced-airflow keeps the amp running very cool--and one of these days I'll probably crank up the bias in search of "sweeter spots" on the MOSFET curves. (I recall "This is Spinal Tap"....MY amp goes to 11.....!!)
CanAm Man's Amp Camp Amp
Errr..... I think we're a few letters short of a pallindrome, here.......!
(Wasn't he the star of that old TV black-and-white Western, starring Richard Boone???)
I've built the mini-a, Zen 1, Zen 9, F5 twice, L'amp CCS, L'amp v193.
They all cost between $300~$500, except the Zen 1 which cost less.
My first "real" amp was a used 50w Adcom that I financed for a year same as cash for $250. That was 20 years ago. I guess I'm still trying to keep it at that price range.
They all cost between $300~$500, except the Zen 1 which cost less.
My first "real" amp was a used 50w Adcom that I financed for a year same as cash for $250. That was 20 years ago. I guess I'm still trying to keep it at that price range.
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