Aleph J illustrated build guide - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 5th September 2013, 03:32 AM   #21
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Don't worry about the bypasses. Especially if you are using silmics. Use them or leave them be, whatever makes you feel better about the build.
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Old 5th September 2013, 02:03 PM   #22
Neville is offline Neville  United States
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Darn it Jim ! I am just about getting ready to build my F4 based on your guide, now you shove this in my face?

Another great guide that will inspire many to build

Last edited by Neville; 5th September 2013 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 5th September 2013, 02:10 PM   #23
henryve is offline henryve  South Africa
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Woohoo! Just got my boards. My wife will have some trouble getting me to sleep tonight.
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Old 5th September 2013, 02:18 PM   #24
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville View Post
Darn it Jim ! I am just about getting ready to build my F5 based on your guide, now you shove this in my face?

Another great guide that will inspire many to build
Make a few extra connections to the PSU output of your F5, and with little effort you can swap the Aleph J PCB in place of the F5 and vice-versa. The big expensive case and PSU need only be bought/built once.

Yes, it's that easy.

Have you ordered the Aleph J PCB yet?
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Old 5th September 2013, 02:25 PM   #25
Neville is offline Neville  United States
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Sorry I typed, F5 when it should have been F4.

LOL, heck no......still trying to get all the parts through front door for F4 without being caught by wife
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Old 6th September 2013, 03:57 PM   #26
henryve is offline henryve  South Africa
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Jim

Just a few notes on the Store boards.

I find them quite a challenge to solder compare to some other boards. The solder don't really want to take to the pads even though I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol.

Also I see with the newest layout that the resistors around C2 is very tight if you are going to use the RN60D resistors. My suggestion to fellow solder slingers is to rather avoid that annoyance and use smaller resistors in these positions if they are super fussy about a neat layout.

I will post a pic later tonight. At the moment I have a few steaks on the barbie, so I can't do it right now.
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Old 6th September 2013, 05:07 PM   #27
henryve is offline henryve  South Africa
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Attached is a pic where one can see the tight area around C2. With the new layout allowing for a bigger cap things will be very tight when using that bigger cap, and with RN60 resistors might even be impossible to mount a bigger sized cap for C2. So beware.
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File Type: jpg DSC_2215.JPG (416.8 KB, 1019 views)

Last edited by henryve; 6th September 2013 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 6th September 2013, 05:08 PM   #28
rif is offline rif  United States
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Jim-what are those bridge rectifiers? I can't seem to find them at digikey in fast recovery type.
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Old 7th September 2013, 10:57 PM   #29
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Hi guys, I am ordering parts for this amp and antek does not have 300 or 400 18v transformer in stock. Would it hurt to go to 16v.or 20 v? I assume this would impact the bias also. Any advice appreciated.

thanks, John
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Old 7th September 2013, 11:07 PM   #30
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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20

in that case , no 25Vdc rated caps , but more

no change of bias needed , that's eeeny weeeny difference
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