Available F5 PSU PCB options? Jim's -> Sjöström!? - diyAudio
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Old 2nd June 2013, 06:44 AM   #1
lhalha is offline lhalha  Australia
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Default Recommendations wanted for F5 PSU PCB that is currently for sale

Hi all,

First post here after lurking through many months of intensive scholarship. Now it's build time!

I'm putting together an F5 but having trouble choosing a PSU / rectifier combo. As neither PassDIY or DIYAudio are currently selling PSU boards, I've been hunting for something appropriate online. I'm wanting to keep this amp all PCB based...

The contenders seem to be... On the one hand:

Jim's Audio (eBay) - various designs. Seemingly anauthorised Pass "copies"

CRC Power Supply PCB Terminal Blocks Thermistor Are Included | eBay

And on the other hand - Something a lot more upmarket:

Sjöström Audio SPS01

Sjöström Audio - SPS01 Sjöström Power Supply

If I opt for the Sjostrom design, feeding it with the oft-used Antek 2 x 18V, is there anything I'd need to do to tweak the "out of the box" BOM? Or will this provide appropriate output to feed into my DIYAudio F5 boards without modification?

I already have 8 x Mundorf 22.000µF/40V M-Lytic AG caps and Mills resistors on the way, taking inspiration from this post:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs...amp-build.html

Thanks guys!

Last edited by lhalha; 2nd June 2013 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Title was not descriptive enough
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Old 2nd June 2013, 07:06 AM   #2
palmito is offline palmito  United States
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Default Chipamp?

I have not built one, but I think I've seen people recommend this one Aleph Power Supply PCB | Chipamp Electronics. Try searching the F5 thread?
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Old 2nd June 2013, 09:28 AM   #3
lhalha is offline lhalha  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmito View Post
I have not built one, but I think I've seen people recommend this one Aleph Power Supply PCB | Chipamp Electronics. Try searching the F5 thread?
Yep seen that one thanks... Hoping to be able to make use all 8 caps I already have though
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Old 2nd June 2013, 10:28 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmito View Post
I have not built one, but I think I've seen people recommend this one Aleph Power Supply PCB | Chipamp Electronics. Try searching the F5 thread?
yes F5 dual mono with this boards. but with external dual bridges.
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Old 2nd June 2013, 10:41 AM   #5
lhalha is offline lhalha  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioSan View Post
yes F5 dual mono with this boards. but with external dual bridges.
Nice looking amp

What transformers have you used for that, and also - any reason you didn't do the rectification on the PSU boards - simply to use the case as a heat sink?
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Old 2nd June 2013, 04:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhalha View Post
Nice looking amp

What transformers have you used for that, and also - any reason you didn't do the rectification on the PSU boards - simply to use the case as a heat sink?
it is 2*18V 225VA RS transformers.
the reason for external bridges, was to get dual bridges. and to make sure they get the cooling they need.
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Old 2nd June 2013, 05:21 PM   #7
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_f5_man.pdf last page

Nelson has chosen 0R47 3 W x 4 in parallel
In my case you skip the green terminal and solder the resistor in place R11/R12

Bleeder 2k2 3W

In my pcb you can use 7 W resistors
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Old 2nd June 2013, 05:38 PM   #8
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$9 vs $50.
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Old 3rd June 2013, 04:35 AM   #9
lhalha is offline lhalha  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peranders View Post
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_f5_man.pdf last page

Nelson has chosen 0R47 3 W x 4 in parallel
In my case you skip the green terminal and solder the resistor in place R11/R12

Bleeder 2k2 3W

In my pcb you can use 7 W resistors
Hi PA... (if I may call you that

Just to clarify... To get the required 25V output, do you mean:

1. Omit the terminals X3 & X4
2. Add 0R47 3W x 4 in parallel (or equivalent) in R11/R12
3. Leave your R9/R10 as 1k 7W, or should this be 2k2 3W as per Pass PSU R9/R10?

I have already ordered 10 x 0R47 3W - Should I change to 7W, what is the benefit?

And any suggestions on how best to make this fit nicely on the PCB? Do I need to piggy back them on top of each other or am I misunderstanding what you are suggesting.

Thanks! lhalha
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Old 3rd June 2013, 05:18 AM   #10
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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You don't have to have bleeder resistors. They are there if you want the power supply to be discharged faster at switch off.

It's more practical to have only one resistor.... but you can build a stack with four resistors.
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