A guide to building the Pass F4 amplifier. - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 18th April 2013, 07:49 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by bnorrish View Post
Interesting - board is $7. I have not looked the the BAs that closely. Anyone post one of those to make standalone preamp? Need to add some sort of attenuation for volume. I am sure there are a few other details.
Build two F4's and go balanced with BA3 and you have something very nice. Has P3 to adjust sound to your liking. No feedback is special sound.
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Old 18th April 2013, 09:39 AM   #12
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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Fugly! tutorial

(except fact that 4x33mF is sissy cap bank , in my book )

and , yes - if you turn that tech. bottom plate upside down (comparing to present position) , you'll have place for screw heads underneath

in way like you made it , screw heads are bottoming to regular bottom plate

there is a way to save what you made , without flipping that plate and making new holes - take longer M4 screws (4 pcs , which are holding tech. plate to side brackets ) , screw them to side brackets with 2 screw nuts on each , then put tech. plate on them , screw it with screw nuts

that way you'll have 2 screw nut height of clearance between tech. and bottom plates
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Old 18th April 2013, 09:41 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
Like anything, put your selector switch then your pot/stepped attenuator before the input of the gain stage. Easy!

PSU could be done a million different ways, choose your preferred flavor.

I would be happy to help, if you would like a nudge in the right direction.
Order complete - F4 and BA3 front end boards.
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Old 18th April 2013, 10:06 AM   #14
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You can go naked with f4 if using Ba3 FE.
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Old 18th April 2013, 10:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by thor61 View Post
Really great pics and write-up ! I have a heat-sink question as I have not drilled my sinks yet. Could someone tell me the distance from the bottom for the mosfet bolt holes ? See pick Attachment 343260
1/3 up from the bottom is a nice place to start.
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Old 18th April 2013, 11:12 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
You can go naked with f4 if using Ba3 FE.
It sounds that good that I would want to get naked. Sorry - could not resist. Not sure I quite follow. I would be using with Pearl 2/TT, CD and Sonos. If I only had a DAC or digital source I could go naked - just use the BA3 board as is between the source and F4. Use source to attenuate.
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Old 18th April 2013, 11:15 AM   #17
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Dropping the Jfet FE on F4. Basically complete BA3. You can wire F4 with switchable input so that it can be used as plain F4 or Naked F4.
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Old 18th April 2013, 01:23 PM   #18
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
(except fact that 4x33mF is sissy cap bank , in my book )
It's quiet and I had it on hand.

The next DIYaudio PSU circuit board will be able to hold (8) caps with 35mm diameter - Once those are available I will make a big Brutus cap bank.

Papa uses (8) 15,000uf, so he must be sissy as well? LOL!

Quote:
and , yes - if you turn that tech. bottom plate upside down (comparing to present position) , you'll have place for screw heads underneath
Yes, I suppose it is upside-down...

However, there are no holes drilled in it except big one for transformer, so flipping the sub-plate will actually be easy. I need to take it apart anyway to attach the rest of the chassis pieces.
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Old 18th April 2013, 01:26 PM   #19
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6L6

Fantastic guide !!!! I will soon be assembling my Ba3B - F4 and now I have the model !!!! Thank you
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Old 18th April 2013, 01:53 PM   #20
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What is the ETA for the next Diyaudio PSU board ? Here is a link for the one I have, it has the thermistor board mounted. Please tell me what you think.... See link > CRC Power Supply PCB Terminal Blocks Thermistor Are Included | eBay
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