Building an F5 Turbo v2 (in-Progress)

[bnorrish]

Looking forward to another 6L6 build.!

Originally Posted by 6L6

Why? Three reasons -- Heatsink, heatsink and heatsink.
A 2pr stereo is about all the 5U can handle.

If the 5u heatsinks cannot take 4, what would you need to use to build the V2 from the schematic?

[6L6]

Originally Posted by bnorrish

If the 5u heatsinks cannot take 4, what would you need to use to build the V2 from the schematic?

This case (5U 400mm)

Something is getting lost in translation as I haven't gotten to those photos yet... This is going to have the V2 from the schematic, with 2 output pairs and diodes.

This is a photo of one channel output boards on the heatsinks, the Front-End board will be mounted on the baseplate.



I will continue the guide shortly.

[6L6]

Originally Posted by Zen Mod

6L6 - be sure , later , to (edit) include link in first post in thread - directly to powering up/biasing procedure ..... which you are going to write , in detail

Yes, that info, as well as much more procedure in general will all be in the official guide. This thread is just the teaser.

[PKI]

Buzz, can you please point to the thread/post where 2nd and 3d harmonics adjustment with P3 described? Can't find it :-(

[biju55]

6L6 , where did you buy this heat sink chassis from ?

[didiet78]

Originally Posted by biju55

6L6 , where did you buy this heat sink chassis from ?

I think from DIY Audio Store
5U Amplifier Chassis w/ Aluminum Heatsinks and Faceplate - Full width with 40mm Heatsinks - Chassis

Didiet

[danielutzu]

6L6: how did you configure the first PSU board with the filter resistors so that all 8 caps are connected BEFORE the resistors (and not 2 caps before the resistors and 2 caps after them per rail)?

[6L6]

At this point it becomes necessary to power things up in stages to verify that the PSU is working properly. Here you can see a temporary AC hookup on the far end, and the secondaries connected to the rectifier, and a centertap made from the inside wires. There should be +35v between the V+ pad on the bridge board and the centertap, -35v between V- and the centertap.


Don't forget that the bottoms of the diodes are conductive, so you must use an insulator. These particular silpads are made for this case, and insulate well, but are small and require care when mounting to make sure they are in the right spot.


Anyway, if the bridge tests properly, then connect it to the capacitor boards. It's a good idea to use a light bulb mains lead for this.




(This is temporary wiring)
Check the voltages at the far side of the PCB, check the LEDs for proper operation.



As the build progressed I needed to adjust the position of the bridge, and I added a terminal block for the transformer secondaries. (I am likely going to use this chassis for more than one guide, and keeping the transformer easily interchangeable will be useful.)


Wiring from Bridge to PCB


The completed DC section of the PSU

[biju55]

[Russellc]

Originally Posted by buzzforb

6L6,
looks great, as usual.
I am interested to see how that bottom takes the weight of the toroid. I have a suspician you might have some give.

Wayne,
my V3 is at home on sinks. Just didt get the PSU's finished.

Actually, its not bad at all. Just got my 5U Deluxe case put together. The way the two pans go together stiffens it considerably.

Russellc