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Old 24th September 2013, 04:10 PM   #41
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Is a 0R01 resistor .1 ohms or .01 ohms?
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Old 24th September 2013, 04:21 PM   #42
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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R means comma

so 0R1 is 0,1R

0R01 is 0,01R
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Old 24th September 2013, 04:31 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
R means comma

so 0R1 is 0,1R

0R01 is 0,01R
Thanks ZM

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Last edited by marc brown; 24th September 2013 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 24th September 2013, 05:01 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrochap View Post
Finally got the diodes!
Happy I won't have to disconnect the speakers terminals anymore when I turn off the amp!

Diode has to be installed in series to limit the current. If it is in parallel, current will be able to go through the resistor & the diode...

I'll get back here when installed to tell the result of this diode installation.

Was pretty $$$ for diodes!
You install either the CRD diode or resistor not both.
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Old 24th September 2013, 10:28 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrochap View Post
Finally got the diodes!
Happy I won't have to disconnect the speakers terminals anymore when I turn off the amp!

Diode has to be installed in series to limit the current. If it is in parallel, current will be able to go through the resistor & the diode...

I'll get back here when installed to tell the result of this diode installation.

Was pretty $$$ for diodes!
With your build, were you able to find 2sc2705's? What are good equivalents?

thanks
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Old 24th September 2013, 10:38 PM   #46
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If using the crd diode in place of R1, can a cap be put in parallel with it to quiet it down?
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Old 25th September 2013, 10:36 PM   #47
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Hey Mark Brown, all I've used were BD139 & BD140 all the way. Never even look for matchings. Tazz said they were pretty low in voltage tolerance but never had problem with them. I don't listen to very loud music but I think you should use something with higher voltge tolerance...

O/Ps are Hitachi 2SJ50 & 2SK135.
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Old 31st October 2013, 02:11 PM   #48
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Well hi again all,

Fortunately, one of my "audio friend" just got back to me yesterday saying he has a CT11 and a CT12 (not working) he would sell me for $100. Great ! Just in time!

With the success of my first Mosfet CT12 I'm now at the stage of building my second one and I have a few questions:

I have 2 coroidal transfos with correspondant voltage I took from a "burned" SIMA 300 amplifier for a P.S. start. The question is: What should I use as a bridge rectifier? Shottky diodes? I've red somewhere that faster diodes would not give anything better...

I have 12x 3300 uf "PS audio gold" capacitors I was thinking of putting in series with a .5 ohms resistor between them (3caps on each side). Is this a good idea?

I will use our friend Tazz boards with 241 and 9241 Mosfet (I did use Hitachi J50 an K135 in my first unit which caused me some biasing problem as they are lateral FET). I will build those amp boards with Mr Pass suggested parts and will replace R1 with the current limiting diode which BTW is very good eliminating some "woof" while turning on and off the amp. Not all of tem but most. Anything special I should consider?

Thanks all for your great ideas. My Mosfet CT12 is very very good and since I've paired it with my Mark Levinson ML1 preamp is giving me hours of pleasure!
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Old 1st November 2013, 11:01 PM   #49
juma is offline juma  Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrochap View Post
... I have 2 coroidal transfos ...
Never saw such transformers - I suppose it got something to do with a Greek word κοροιδο ?
If that's so, don't expect much of them....
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Old 5th November 2013, 03:38 PM   #50
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Well sorry, Toroidal transfos...

And for the capacitors, obviously they are in parallel with the .5 ohms resistors in series on the + and - sides, dependently.
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