Aleph J for Universal Mounting Spec - Page 51 - diyAudio
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Old 20th August 2013, 05:06 PM   #501
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Not off topic at all!

The Keratherm insulators require no grease - they are their own interface material, all you need to do in insure you have clean faces (of the heatsink and transistor) and place them in-between.
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Old 20th August 2013, 05:14 PM   #502
jrebman is offline jrebman  United States
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Thanks, Jim.

This sounds really nice -- now I get what the big deal is. :-)

-- Jim
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Old 20th August 2013, 05:20 PM   #503
gadut is offline gadut  Indonesia
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What about using cpu grade thermal paste? I usually use thermaltake paste, it's cheap. Even the shiniest cpu and heatsink surface - mirror looklike - still need thermal paste to ensure a better heat transfer
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Old 20th August 2013, 09:03 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
If you would interested in buying a kit, and at this time it looks like it will cost $75USD + shipping, please send me a PM. (I'm only recording interest at this time, not taking orders)
6L6,

I won't be getting in on the kit because I had already ordered all of the parts. Looks like a great deal, though. Good luck with it.

For those of you that are looking for a cap that will fit next to fat C2, C3 caps such as Muse, you might take a look at the link below. I found these at home in an old bag of Gainclone parts. They will fit flat to the board with a fat C2,C3 if you tweak the leads a little. They even leave room for R29.

While they might not be my favorite, the are MKP and should be of reasonable quality.

BFC241611004 Vishay / BC Components | Mouser
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Old 20th August 2013, 09:08 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadut View Post
What about using cpu grade thermal paste? I usually use thermaltake paste, it's cheap. Even the shiniest cpu and heatsink surface - mirror looklike - still need thermal paste to ensure a better heat transfer
gadut,

I was told by a man who has been building and selling quality amps for 30 years that silicone isolators should never be used with thermal paste. That it actually reduces performance. Also, he said that a silicone isolator pad has better performance that thermal paste alone.

I'm no expert, but I have taken his advise and had efficient heatsinks ever since. He also suggests looking at the data sheet to find the recommended max torque for the transistor to heatsink screw and trying to torque it at about 90% of maximum, in other words, very tight. Of course, you have to have a feel for the screw as the threads in soft aluminum can strip out.

I would appreciate it if those with more expertise and experience would comment and correct me.
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Old 22nd August 2013, 10:25 PM   #506
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Mouser box arrived with part of my build kit.

This is my first time using the ERX power resistors. I notice that they have a black band around one end of the body. This band is not shown in the datasheet. In a capacitor, I would have assumed it indicates polarity or preferred orientation. Any thoughts on what the band means or how to use it?

Since we are matching everything else, it there any reason to match power resistors? If so, which resistors match which?

Also, the boards have 4 GND connections that are all connected within the board. I would typically run just one audio ground line to the balanced input. I figured multiple runs would just be ground loops. Is there any reason to do something different?
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Old 22nd August 2013, 10:31 PM   #507
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lehmanhill View Post
Also, the boards have 4 GND connections that are all connected within the board. I would typically run just one audio ground line to the balanced input. I figured multiple runs would just be ground loops. Is there any reason to do something different?
You will need to have the amp board get PSU GND somehow. And also the speaker black attaches to GND...

You don't have to connect them all at the amp PCB. But this way you have options.

Don't worry about the markings on the resistors. Just put them all in the same way so they are easy to read in photos.

If you really want to get your laser level out and adjust your bowtie, match the source resistors together on the output fets and on the CCS fets. It can't hurt to do so.
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Old 24th August 2013, 02:37 AM   #508
Bones13 is offline Bones13  United States
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I thought everyone matched all their resistor, all the time.

My case and PSU boards shipped today.

Question on PSU toroids. I found I could not even buy 2 plitron toroids and get to the $250 minimum, pretty tough on the DIY crowd I guess. Moving on to the AnTek toroids, they did not have the 400VA in stock, but did have the 500VA with 18/18 (for half what one Plitron 300VA costs). What are other suggestions for power transformers? I don't plan a lot of builds, and don't mind paying for quality, but I am at a loss for what would have quality = to plitron, or "better" than the AnTek. Still up in the air on 1/2 toroids and/or 1/2 PSU boards.

The ACA kit did show up today though, so I will be busy for a couple of weeks messing with those, while I firm up my BOM for the Aleph J.
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Old 24th August 2013, 02:52 AM   #509
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i love antek.
ive used them with all my stuff so far.

cant recomend them enough.
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Old 24th August 2013, 02:59 AM   #510
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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The 500VA will work great. It's only about 10 bucks more.
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