Best Pre-amp to build for a new DIYer?

[hifimaker]

Hey,

Pardon "newbie" question.... but

I have a Rotel 990BX amp and 970BX pre-amp, and I'm interested in upgrading my pre-amp. Being short on funds and always wanting to build a pre-amp, this seems like a good oportunity to jump in and build one.

My question is: Should I consider building a "Son of Zen" pre-amp or maybe an Aelph P pre-amp?

Any suggestions for a first time build would be appreciated. Also, any recommendations for a PCB source is appreciated.

Thank you,

-David

[Nelson Pass]

BSOZ and Aleph P are largely the same preamp. I recommend
BSOZ due to its greater simplicity. You don't want to tackle the
attenuator of the P as a novice.

[ElectroNick]

How about the Bride of Zen ?


Works fine for me ....

Grtz,
Nick

[hifimaker]

WOW, what a nice looking pre-amp. Can't wait to build one of my own.

I'm thinking of building BOSOZ preamp with the Croation PCB's. http://web.vip.hr/pcb-design.vip/bls.html

Someone let me know if there is a better board available.

Thanks for sharing,

-David

[hifimaker]

Thank you Mr. Pass for your recommendation. After looking more closely at the designs, the BSOZ does seem more appropriate. Yes, BSOZ and Aleph P are essentially the same preamp.

I appreciate the recommendation.

Now to find the right BSOZ board...

-David

[jarek]

BSOZ and Aleph P are largely the same preamp. I recommend BSOZ due to its greater simplicity.

Hi Nelson,
What running temperature do you like for IRF9610’s in BLS? On the board is rather little space for heatsinks. Mosfets go very, very hot. Does this have a important influence on the performance?

[BobEllis]

My BoSoZ rund darned hot too. I think that it is higher current that makes for better sound, not temperature. If you can keep the temperature down, it will live longer. With the recommended heat sinks I measured 75C case temperature at +/-62 Volts on the rails and 80 mA draw per channel.

I built my regulators (one pair per channel) with 1x1x1.65" heat sinks - they run less than 50C, they would have been mighty hot with the heat sink called out in the article - about 4 watts if you use a single regulator for both channels.

there is another heat sink that is the same width as the recommended part, but has significantly longer fins(perpendicular to mounting face.) A couple distributors I checked had them. I'm waiting for delivery of some, I hope it is enough. if not, I'll rebuild with the bigger extrusions used in the power supply (and while I am at it change over to CCS).

[Squalish]

GILMORE DYNAMIC!!!
Well, perhaps not for newbies. Originally a headphone amp, but can also be used to great affect as a preamp.

The PS is the only thing that needs heatsinks, and even then, four medium-sized to-220 sinks should do good. To cut down on heat a ton, you can safely downgrade the toroid from 35v to either 18v or 22v.

You can protoboard it or buy a PCB on Antness' page.
Around $200 w/ an alps blue($350 w/ a dact) to DIY it.

[till]

You don't want to tackle the attenuator of the P as a novice.

what do you think about this as an alternative: http://home.tu-clausthal.de/~tpa/relais/relais.html

BSOZ and Aleph P are largely the same preamp. I recommend BSOZ due to its greater simplicity.

and what about the sound ?

[Nickolas K.]

Does your Rotel amp have balanced inputs?
Because if it doesn't you don't need a balanced preamp.
Just go for the AlephL.

Nick